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View Full Version : So, I porked my motherboard. What to do?



rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 04:56 AM
I was changing the ram in my motherboard. I somehow got an old stick of ram mixed in with the new. Long story short, I plugged in the wrong stick without noticing, and now the motherboard refuses to boot. Wahoooo.

I really wouldn't give if it wasn't for IL-2. But there is IL-2, and even BoB in the future, so something must be done! But anyways, since it is porked, could y'alls give me some advice? I'd just like some other viewpoints here.
I was planning to throw a new video card into my 4.2 GHz P4 machine so I could play ol' IL-2 on this computer. I was planning to upgrade both the motherboard and processor sometime next year, because (of course) BoB is gonna come along one of these days! I figured it'd be smarter to wait until after it's released to upgrade, so I know the specs, and can use you guys as my hardware testing lab rats first.
But anyways, this kind of puts me into the whole buying-a-new-motherboard-thingy a bit earlier than a planned. Do you guys think it'd be better to:
A - Get another Intel P4 compatible motherboard and just use my existing processor, compatible board, and an upgraded graphics card. I can then upgrade later, although it's somewhat inefficient as then I end up buying two motherboards.
OR
B - Do a more major upgrade now that will be on par with a pretty good system that will be able to compete six months to a year from now? I guess what I'm really after is in six months to a year, how much will prices drop and technology go up? I don't really follow the PC hardware scene that much, so I dunno. If I buy something pretty good now, what's the likelihood that it will already be outdated in six months to a year? How much can I expect to see prices drop in six months to a year? Another pain is that I'd need to get a board with both AGP and PCI-E (do these even exist?) because right now I have an AGP card, and right now I couldn't afford both a new card, and a new motherboard. In order to use the card I have now, I would need AGP, but I would want to upgrade to PCI-E in the future, sometime.


Sorry for the huge post, but I'm kind of in a pickle, y'see. Any input would be very appreciated.

Thank you!

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 04:56 AM
I was changing the ram in my motherboard. I somehow got an old stick of ram mixed in with the new. Long story short, I plugged in the wrong stick without noticing, and now the motherboard refuses to boot. Wahoooo.

I really wouldn't give if it wasn't for IL-2. But there is IL-2, and even BoB in the future, so something must be done! But anyways, since it is porked, could y'alls give me some advice? I'd just like some other viewpoints here.
I was planning to throw a new video card into my 4.2 GHz P4 machine so I could play ol' IL-2 on this computer. I was planning to upgrade both the motherboard and processor sometime next year, because (of course) BoB is gonna come along one of these days! I figured it'd be smarter to wait until after it's released to upgrade, so I know the specs, and can use you guys as my hardware testing lab rats first.
But anyways, this kind of puts me into the whole buying-a-new-motherboard-thingy a bit earlier than a planned. Do you guys think it'd be better to:
A - Get another Intel P4 compatible motherboard and just use my existing processor, compatible board, and an upgraded graphics card. I can then upgrade later, although it's somewhat inefficient as then I end up buying two motherboards.
OR
B - Do a more major upgrade now that will be on par with a pretty good system that will be able to compete six months to a year from now? I guess what I'm really after is in six months to a year, how much will prices drop and technology go up? I don't really follow the PC hardware scene that much, so I dunno. If I buy something pretty good now, what's the likelihood that it will already be outdated in six months to a year? How much can I expect to see prices drop in six months to a year? Another pain is that I'd need to get a board with both AGP and PCI-E (do these even exist?) because right now I have an AGP card, and right now I couldn't afford both a new card, and a new motherboard. In order to use the card I have now, I would need AGP, but I would want to upgrade to PCI-E in the future, sometime.


Sorry for the huge post, but I'm kind of in a pickle, y'see. Any input would be very appreciated.

Thank you!

R_Target
08-19-2007, 07:33 AM
Did you try clearing the CMOS? What's the brand and model?

x6BL_Brando
08-19-2007, 08:23 AM
I suggest this. Remove new RAM, replace old. Re-boot, it should work. Power down and replace old with new RAM. With power off, lead disconnected, o as Target suggests, clear the CMOS data using the jumper (see manual) and then reboot.

You will need to enter BIOS to reset the clock and enter the correct date. Boot with default settings and BIOS should recognise your new RAM.

As far as the rest, yes it's a pig making that jump....but the cheapest way is to save up towards an all new rig. There's no easy way to avoid this. If you did need a new mobo then you're looking at changes in memory (RAM), cpu socket and graphics cards. A very few boards are multi-functional, but it's a blind alley....

Anyway, I'd be surprised if you've "porked your motherboard" doing what you described: unless it was still plugged in and/or you didn't ground yourself while handling the transfer. Try the CMOS clear first.

B

JG6_Oddball
08-19-2007, 09:26 AM
when you turn on the PC does it beep like morse code? if so its telling you the memory is not conpatable or is not seating correctly, do as mentioned above, as for new machine list all the spec's of the current one.

S!

BrotherVoodoo
08-19-2007, 10:23 AM
I think the guys are right,look for instructions to your motherboard or check online but resetting the CMOS should fix you up. On my asus it was removing the battery and switching a jumper for a min. On my MSI there is simply a button to push on the motherboard. I have at times withmy asus system had to resort to taking the whole bugger apart down to just the MB, PSU and CPU, power on and listen to the beeps. Add the video card, listen to beeps. Add back in the old ram, listen to beeps. Add back hard drives and it boots up. Make sure you triple check all of your connections while you are in there.

AKA_TAGERT
08-19-2007, 10:49 AM
Just don't let your fatherboard find out about it.. could tear the family apart!

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 10:50 AM
I tried swapping the CMOS jumper and doing the battery. Nothing. Now it won't start up at all.

Here are the symptoms:
No beeps. It used to just turn on for one second, enough for the lights to flash and the fans to start spinning. Then it stopped. No time for the monitor to start up. One time, it started up, and got to the system summary page. Then it froze. And now, the power button is totally dead.

http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif

EiZ0N
08-19-2007, 11:44 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockgardenlove:
Another pain is that I'd need to get a board with both AGP and PCI-E (do these even exist?) because right now I have an AGP card, and right now I couldn't afford both a new card, and a new motherboard. In order to use the card I have now, I would need AGP, but I would want to upgrade to PCI-E in the future, sometime. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Not to worry, these motherboards DO exist.

I've seen Core2 compatible motherboards, with support for both DDR1 as well as DDR2, AND PCI-E and AGP. Very cool list of compatibility if you ask me.

BrotherVoodoo
08-19-2007, 11:55 AM
Look through this troubleshooting guide. I have had the same problems a few times before. I know your frusteration.

http://arstechnica.com/guides/tweaks/troubleshooting.ars

M_Gunz
08-19-2007, 12:08 PM
You do have a lot to check out. But there is still chance it is something rather simple
like a connector or jumper wrong.

How incompatible a stick of RAM is, if it fits it should not cause mobo failure though
something else changed unnoticed could be the cause. First go away from it and cool down,
even get some sleep then go back and check everything over against the mobo manual.
Remove all the RAM and have the sticks tested unless buying a new stick would be cheaper.
Hey, I don't know your resources but the right friends and/or an honest shop makes difference!

Then try running the PC with just one stick of good RAM, or two if your mobo requires two.
You didn't need to remove the mobo battery either. You only needed to short the CMOS pins
for about 2 seconds with a screwdriver tip. If you short those for minutes then maybe say
bye-bye to the CMOS battery.

If you have a multimeter then try hooking nothing but drives to the power supply and check
the voltages for 5V and 12V on one of the power connectors. If you have fans that can run
directly off power connectors then add them or whatever to increase the load on the supply
(keeping within the rating) and watch for low voltage readings.
Sorry to say but when the power supply goes it can take other parts with it and the state
of that is unknown at this time -- but not dead by far if you can get BIOS screen off a
good videocard, those suck power.

I hate when it gets to removing all but the videocard and troubleshooting up from there.
But then I have one buddy that gave me lots of practice until I found out that he didn't
believe computers needed to be grounded. Had all his surge blocks, etc, set up by another
friend and then when I finally looked wayyy back and under there was a 2-prong adapter.
"Russ, you can't run a PC without ground." "Sure I can, I have for almost two years!"
"You've also been replacing parts regularly." "So?" That time it was power supply, mobo
and RAM by the time we got done.

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 12:12 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by EiZ0N:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockgardenlove:
Another pain is that I'd need to get a board with both AGP and PCI-E (do these even exist?) because right now I have an AGP card, and right now I couldn't afford both a new card, and a new motherboard. In order to use the card I have now, I would need AGP, but I would want to upgrade to PCI-E in the future, sometime. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Not to worry, these motherboards DO exist.

I've seen Core2 compatible motherboards, with support for both DDR1 as well as DDR2, AND PCI-E and AGP. Very cool list of compatibility if you ask me. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Nice. I'm still not sure if I should do a big upgrade now or a holdover motherboard until BoB. What do you guys think?

@BrotherVoodoo
Thanks a great deal for the help. It does appear to be the motherboard. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif

horseback
08-19-2007, 01:28 PM
A 'basic' motherboard usually comes with ethernet and a fair to middling sound for under $90USD, if you shop around, and there are a few that still feature AGP and DDR RAM slots.

Were I you, I'd take the loss of the short-term cash and get the mobo, and save my pennies for the dual core, DirectX 10 PCI-E, DDR2 system six months or a year hence. Your 'old' system will then be useful for someone less blessed than yourself, and you may be able to recoup at least the cost of the 'basic' mobo by selling it to them.

I've been doing that at least once a year since 2002; I usually get back at least a third of the cost of building my new machine.

cheers

horseback

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 01:52 PM
I'm not so sure I'm that blessed myself. Right now I have 75 bucks. So a new motherboard will quite a blow to my finances. What a pain.

R_Target
08-19-2007, 02:57 PM
Is the P4 a socket 478 or LGA775?

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 02:59 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">478 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
478. Why?
Peace!

R_Target
08-19-2007, 03:10 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockgardenlove:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">478 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
478. Why?
Peace! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, if it's really dead, there are quite a few s478 boards on e-bay.

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 03:44 PM
Sounds like a plan. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

Ebsy
08-19-2007, 07:06 PM
rockgardenlove: After reading the 'symptoms' I'd put money on it that it's your computers PSU. I had the exact same thing happen to me a few weeks back. I'd hit the power button only for the PC to appear to start for a couple of seconds, fans whir then nothing...dead. then eventually after a couple of hours it wouldn't switch on at all.

I know this only started happening after you switched the RAM but I'd just say it's a coincidence...a weird one, but it happens.

Bottom line: Try a new PSU first, a lot cheaper than a motherboard. Worth a try at least and sorted it for me.

mbfRoy
08-19-2007, 07:47 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockgardenlove:
I tried swapping the CMOS jumper and doing the battery. Nothing. Now it won't start up at all.

Here are the symptoms:
No beeps. It used to just turn on for one second, enough for the lights to flash and the fans to start spinning. Then it stopped. No time for the monitor to start up. One time, it started up, and got to the system summary page. Then it froze. And now, the power button is totally dead.

http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Just to double check that you did it right, you have take out the battery, move the jumper, then turn on the computer or press the button for a few seconds so that the bios gets a reset (unless the manual says otherwise). And then put everything back of course. Try rebooting without any RAM installed, it should POST at least

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 08:26 PM
@Ebsy
Hmm, interesting. My power supply is 330 watt right now. I think that's a bit low if I were to upgrade later on. Maybe I'll buy a 400-450 watt PSU to try. If the PSU isn't the problem, I guess I'll just have a nicer PSU. I wish I could try it, but the two other PSUs I have lack the auxilary 12 volt connector that my motherboard needs.

@Roy
Thanks for pointing that out. That's what I did the first time around, but verification that I did it right is nice. No luck. The pure similarity to Ebsy's situation makes me think it's the PSU anyways.

Thanks everybody!

Ebsy
08-19-2007, 08:51 PM
Let us know how you get on mate, hope you get it sorted.

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 09:23 PM
Ebsy, if I were the Queen, I would knight you.

I decided that even if I couldn't test a non-12v auxilary PSU on my computer, I could test my computer's PSU on a non-aux 12v computer...so, I did.
And my PSU cannot power a known functioning computer. So, it is the PSU then, no?

Thanks guys!

R_Target
08-19-2007, 10:01 PM
Yup, looks like you figured it out. Isn't troubleshooting fun?

rockgardenlove
08-19-2007, 10:25 PM
Loads. I even got to cut my finger on the case metal!

So, what sort of PSU do I want now?
Hah.

Von_Rat
08-20-2007, 03:36 AM
to check a power supply just smell it.

every time i had a power supply go bad i could smell a faint burned oder. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/35.gif

slipBall
08-20-2007, 05:38 AM
You could try this to check your psu one last time. Disconnect the PSU from everything (wall, mobo, etc) ...then plug the unit back into the wall socket and connect a couple hard drives to a molex connector to provide a load. Now....with the switch on the back of the PSU in the off position...locate the Dark Green wire in the ATX connector and using a paper clip (or something similar) "jump it" to any of the black wires in the connector....Now flip the switch on the back to On.......the PSU should start up and run

rockgardenlove
08-20-2007, 11:07 AM
Great test slipBall!
NOthing happened. It did work on on test PSU, so I know I did it right. I tested it twice too. I think it's time to go PSU shopping...

slipBall
08-20-2007, 11:19 AM
PSU's fail quite often, I had one go after three month's of use. If you get a high watt high end, you can expand on your machine and you are covered if you do a high end rebuild down the road....I'm using a OCZ 700w, and I wish that it was higher

M_Gunz
08-20-2007, 11:21 AM
You may want to check the rest of your rig.

Losing a power supply can take other parts with it, sorry to say but sometimes it happens.

You want a new PSU way overrated for your needs. The more they loaf the longer they last.
Figure at least 600 watts and look for what more you can afford.

Good place to start looking is pricewatch.com. At least know relative prices before you shop.

rockgardenlove
08-20-2007, 12:46 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190128556148
I bought this fellow...before I read your post, maybe I should have gone for more watts but this was the most I could afford. Good reviews on systems that my system could not possibly consume as much power as.
I think/hope I will be satisfied.

And hey, I saved 35 bucks off the new price. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif