PDA

View Full Version : Some successful tactics for Sub-vs-Sub



Dietrich-34.F
11-13-2006, 07:34 AM
Sub vs Sub -- A Tactics Guide


We all know SH3, and most of us know the degenerate variant: Multiplayer-SH3. Even more perverted is Sub-vs-sub Multiplayer-SH3 but, let's face it, it's lots of fun and, in the absence of human-controlled destroyers, it's the best we have for pitting our wits against each other. This article describes one possible strategy for playing sub-vs-sub which, so far for me, has resulted in 100% success in being the last U-Boat left alive.

I figured I'd share it.



Assumptions

Most Sub-vs-sub games online have several features in common:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Firstly, they have unlimited torpedoes.
<LI> Secondly, you have a choice of U-Boat, although the Type-XXI is often not permitted.
<LI> Thirdly, the difficulty level is set low for fast torpedo reloads and the external camera.
[/list]



Pre-Game

During the "joining phase", you are able to select your U-Boat and crew. Obviously select the best crew possible, but then select the best U-Boat. But note... this is not necessarily the latest and biggest boat! I know that in a campaign setting or single-player mission, you would normally go for something like a Type-IXD2, with all those lovely torpedoes. But don't! You have unlimited torpedoes, remember! So, why waste space on internal reserves, let alone external reserves, which just make you a bigger target.

Next, go for performance. You will need to be able to move, and move fast. This is what makes the Type-XXI so good -- 17 knots submerged! Use it, if you can. But, as pointed out, the Type-XXI is often banned from these games. Now the important points to consider are dive times and submerged speed. Submerged speed, is probably slightly more important. Thus, my recommendations in rough order (with dive-time/submerged-speed in brackets after each) are:

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> XXI (25/17.5)
<LI> VIIC/42 (27/8.2)
<LI> VIIB (30/8.0)
<LI> IID (25/7.9)
<LI> VIIC/41 (25/7.6)
<LI> VIIC (27/7.6)
<LI> IIA (35/6.9)
<LI> IXB (35/7.3)
<LI> IXC (37/7.3)
<LI> IXC/40 (37/7.0)
<LI> IXD2 (42/6.9)
[/list]

Yes, once again, the IXD2 is the worst! Apart from the XXI, which is head-and-shoulders above the rest, the VIIC/42, VIIB and IID are all pretty much alike, although the IID is much smaller. However, there are other differences to consider.

Deck and Flak Guns

Deck gun? Forget it. You shouldn't use it. It is inefficient, and you must be on the surface, and hence very vulnerable to use it. Flak guns are even worse. Neither of these options have any bearing on the outcome, and to try to use them is inviting defeat. Thus, the XXI, IID, IIA, VIIC/41, VIIC/42 or any other late-war models are not at any disadvantage here. Do not let the guns on the U-Boat tempt you -- they are a liability.



Torpedoes

Here is the critical factor. You must choose a boat with the right torpedoes. Now depending on the year and boat type, different torpedoes will be loaded. The crucial factor is not what is already in the tubes, but rather what is in the internal reserves! Why? Because that's where all-but-your-first salvo of torpedoes will come from. With unlimited torpedoes, these internal reserves continuously "respawn", so to speak, so the selection you get here is most critical.

So what is a "good" torpedo?

Unlike ships, which tend to be more predictable and stick to a 2-dimensional surface, human-controlled U-boats are unpredictable, move in three dimensions, and can observe and react to threats. Thus, the four top torpedoes that are going to be useful are:

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-V (G7es) Zaunk??nig acoustic torpedo
<LI> T-IV (G7es) Falke acoustic torpedo
<LI> T-III FaT II (G7e) pattern torpedo
<LI> T-I FaT I (G7a) pattern torpedo
[/list]

The acoustic torpedoes are obvious. They home on the sound of the propellors and thus do not need precise solutions to hit. The Zaunk??nig (24 knots) is slightly better than the Falke (20 knots). The pattern torpedoes are also good, in that they will often change direction in the vicinity of the target, forcing the target to keep down, or surprising it with an unexpected turn (especially the first turn into the ladder pattern itself). The T-I FaT I is faster, and has a longer range, but with a bubble trail, is easier to watch its movement and judge its course. The T-III FaT II is slightly better in this regard, because although it is slower, it is more difficult to assess its direction, so it requires more observing time to figure the path out, and thus once in the area does a better job of suppressing the enemy.

If you can't get any of these "special" torpedoes (because you may, for example, be limited to 1939 U-Boats), then the good old...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-I (G7a)
<LI> T-III (G7e)
[/list]

... torpedoes will suffice. However, under no circumstances should you use the inferior...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-II (G7e)
[/list]

... which has poor range and speed. And the other torpedoes ...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-I LuT I (G7a)
<LI> T-III LuT II (G7e)
<LI> T-XI (G7es)
[/list]

... are single-player campaign only, and are not available in multi-player games.

So, which U-Boats have these gems? Here is a brief assessment of the "internal reserves" of the boats worth considering in order from good to bad:

XXI
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-I FaT I, T-III FaT III, T-III
<LI> 1944 : T-V, T-I FaT I, T-III FaT III, T-III
<LI> 1943 : T-IV, T-I FaT I, T-III
[/list]

VIIC/42
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-III FaT II, T-III; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1944 : T-III FaT II, T-III; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1943 : T-I FaT I, T-III, T-I; (T-III aft)
[/list]

VIIB
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1942 : T-IV, T-I; (T-IV aft)
<LI> 1939 : T-I; (T-I aft)
[/list]

IIA and IID
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-I
<LI> 1939 : T-I
[/list]

VIIC
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1944 : T-III FaT II, T-III, T-I; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1942 : T-IV, T-I; (T-IV aft)
<LI> 1939 : T-I; (T-I aft)
[/list]

So, if you're not limited in year, go for a XXI or VIIC/42. For earlier years, you'll get acoustic torpedoes from 1942 variants of the VIIB or VIIC. And if limited to earlier still, just lapse back to the 1939, rather than 1941 version. Don't even consider years not listed above - they are not worth it due to a poorer torpedo loadout.

Even for a laugh, the IIA (1945) has a T-V, and a great deal of malicious satisfaction can be derived from sinking various ??ber-Type-IXs with a IIA. Other than the six types listed above, none of the others are worth their salt. Generally speaking, the superior speed of the VIIB, makes it a better choice over the VIIC's superior dive time, but that's a choice left to the user.

Now, don't forget... it is the internal reserve that counts, not the external reserve and the already-loaded tubes count very little. We shall see why in a minute.

After you've made your choice, take a look at what the others are doing. Make a note of anyone who has gone for a VIIC/42 or a 1942 VIIB or VIIC. A Type-II from 1945 probably also indicates someone who knows what they are doing. Any of the Type-IXs are the so-called "n00bs".


Starting the game

As soon as the game loads, perform the following steps immediately, and complete them AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Set your speed to "Ahead flank" ("5" on the keyboard) -- this will let you change depth more rapidly and make your U-Boat more manoeuverable.
<LI> Periscope depth ("P" on the keyboard) -- get away from any deck-gun enthusiasts, and get at least half way towards our "safe-depth".
<LI> Set for manual torpedo reloading ("I" to see the torpedo invetory, then un-check the circle in the top left for auto-reloading) -- this is your key to winning (see below)
<LI> Go to the torpedo screen ("F6")
<LI> Set for "salvo firing" to launch all forward tubes (located between "Tube Selecting" and "Spread Angle" towards the right).
<LI> Set for "manual solution". This is the little button to the top right of the "Speed", and just to the top-left of gyro angle. When selected, the dials to the left of it, will be highlighted with a faint yellow. You can now use them directly.
<LI> Set the "Range" (second dial from left) to something very large.
<LI> Adjust the "Bearing" (leftmost dial) until the torpedo traces on the screen are going in the general direction of any other U-Boat on the chart. Don't be picky, just get it roughly right.
<LI> Press the fire button at the top to launch all forward torpedos -- this gets rid of them for the "real" attacks, which will be set up in a minute, and also throws the cat amongst the pidgeons to stir things up and get the others moving (not that they generally need much encouragement). You may also be lucky and get a kill!
<LI> Use the Navigator to get the depth under keel.
<LI> Set your depth to 40 metres (or, if the water is shallow, just go as deep as you can up to 40 metres - there is no need to go deeper).
<LI> Go to the plotting chart ("F5" on the keyboard) and use the plotting tool to set a way point to take you away from all the other boats.
[/list]

Right. Now you can take a breather. The above procedure should be done in less than 40 seconds, but aim for 25, if you can.



The main principles

The tactic you need to employ is based on the following facts. In the game, you can only set the torpedo depth down to 25 metres. Thus, if you are down at, say, 40 metres, and your U-Boat is 10 metres high (VIIC/42), then you are safe. We shall call this "Safe-Depth".

The second fact, is that you cannnot fire your torpedoes from such depths; you have to come up to about 15 metres or so. You are vulnerable here, but you have to do it to fire. We shall call this "Firing-Depth". If you want to be lazy, you can just use the "periscope depth" key ("P"), but you'll have plenty of time, so there is no reason not to do it properly.

Unless you are firing, you should be at "Safe-Depth". When you first get down to Safe-Depth, go to the torpedo screen again ("I"). You'll notice your forward tubes are empty. So, drag the type of torpedo you want from the internal reserve up into Tube 1. It will start to load, and the torpedo in the internal reserve will re-generate itself. Now repeat that for the other torpedo tubes. This way you can load any type you have in the internal reserves into your torpedo tubes as you choose.

For the purposes of this article, we'll assume a VIIC/42 (1945) from now on. For a XXI or IID, you can probably guess how to go about doing it from this example.

So, as you move away from the other combatants, load up your forward tubes. Put a "T-III FaT II" pattern torpedo into Tube 1 and put "T-V Zaunk??nig" acoustic torpedoes into Tubes 2, 3 and 4. The FaT will launch first (showing on any event cameras), then the acoustics (which also travel 6 knots slower) will follow. The FaT will get into the area first, and force the U-Boats there to evade. Then the sound of their propellors will attract the T-Vs in for the kill.


Setting the torpedoes

However, before you launch them, set them up correctly. Go to the TDC ("F6") screen again. Set the depth of the FaT to about 10-15 metres (more if the other U-Boats are deep), or less if they are on the surface. The advantage of 10-15 metres, is that its difficult for the target to judge whether to go deep or rise up. The acoustics should be set one each to 4-5 metres, 12-15 metres and 20-25 metres. They'll all be travelling together, so this will put an "acoustic swarm" out which will cover most depths, exploding either from impact, or passing just over or jsut under the target. Even if one overshoots, it may then go after another target, or arc back around to get the original target who has since changed depth. The sequence for depth is usually to go deeper with each one. The reason for that is the best escape for the victim is down, and that way you will follow them. (But varying this pattern can be useful, of course.) If your target is staying deep, put one at exactly 25 metres -- you might just get lucky and clip the top of the target U-Boat.

So, make sure all your torpedoes are set up correctly for depth. Then adjust the gyro angle so that they are going towards the U-Boat icons on the chart. Don't worry about the target speed or angle on bow. They'll either remain stationary, or will move and attract the acoustics anyway. You will probably need to change your course slightly. However, do not head back into the fray. Distance is your friend.

Then adjust the FaT ladder pattern (running distance, leg, gyro angle, etc.) so that the torpedo will criss-cross the area with enemy U-Boats (the more the better!).


Firing the torpedoes

Before firing, use the external camera (if available) to assess the immediate area. Be wary of any nearby torpedoes, especially if they are acoustic or pattern ones. Then, prepare to fire, by rising up to "Firing-Depth". Press fire "Return"), then select the next tube ("Y"), fire, and so on. As soon as you've fired them, go straight back down to "Safe-Depth", and select the torpedoes for the next salvo. You should also reassess your course.

Naturally, a good opponent will be watching you with their external camera, so you can make use of this to bluff them into firing. If you still have a while to go until the salvo is ready, you can come up to fire a single FaT or acoustic, to provide suppressive fire. You can also pretend to rise up, but dive more or less immediately, possibly provoking your opponent to fire off their salvo, or to rise up when there are other hostile torpedoes in their area.


Other considerations

Make sure your crews are assigned to give maximum efficiency to torpedo reloading. Also put a damage repair team in place with any left overs. It might help you stabilise damage faster, should you be hit.

You may have aft torpedoes as well. In particular, the VIIB and VIIC (1942 models) both have T-IV Falke torpedo reloads in the aft reserve. This means that in principle these U-Boats can put five acoustics into an area. At a sufficient distance, you can slowly cycle around the forward and aft tubes, firing them alternately at 1 minute intervals to keep the enemy suppressed.

Keep moving away from the enemy, to maintain a safe distance. The distance means you'll have time to react in the case of a launch of torpedoes. However, the limited ranges of your own torpedoes will dictate a maximum value beyind which it's srt of pointless to wander further. By having a faster underwater U-Boat, you can dictate the distance you want. This is another advantage of the VIIC/42 and, to a lesser extent, the VIIB. (If one person has a XXI, everyone will, so there is no real chance for an advantage here.)

Also, try to keep your U-Boat end-on to any attacks. It'll have a smaller profile that way. And watch out as incoming FaTs can suddenly change through 90 degrees to come at you broadside.


Summary

That's pretty much it. As I say, I've used this with perfect results; hopefully you will have equal amounts of success with it.

Good luck with your sub-vs-sub missions!

Dietrich-34.F
11-13-2006, 07:34 AM
Sub vs Sub -- A Tactics Guide


We all know SH3, and most of us know the degenerate variant: Multiplayer-SH3. Even more perverted is Sub-vs-sub Multiplayer-SH3 but, let's face it, it's lots of fun and, in the absence of human-controlled destroyers, it's the best we have for pitting our wits against each other. This article describes one possible strategy for playing sub-vs-sub which, so far for me, has resulted in 100% success in being the last U-Boat left alive.

I figured I'd share it.



Assumptions

Most Sub-vs-sub games online have several features in common:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Firstly, they have unlimited torpedoes.
<LI> Secondly, you have a choice of U-Boat, although the Type-XXI is often not permitted.
<LI> Thirdly, the difficulty level is set low for fast torpedo reloads and the external camera.
[/list]



Pre-Game

During the "joining phase", you are able to select your U-Boat and crew. Obviously select the best crew possible, but then select the best U-Boat. But note... this is not necessarily the latest and biggest boat! I know that in a campaign setting or single-player mission, you would normally go for something like a Type-IXD2, with all those lovely torpedoes. But don't! You have unlimited torpedoes, remember! So, why waste space on internal reserves, let alone external reserves, which just make you a bigger target.

Next, go for performance. You will need to be able to move, and move fast. This is what makes the Type-XXI so good -- 17 knots submerged! Use it, if you can. But, as pointed out, the Type-XXI is often banned from these games. Now the important points to consider are dive times and submerged speed. Submerged speed, is probably slightly more important. Thus, my recommendations in rough order (with dive-time/submerged-speed in brackets after each) are:

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> XXI (25/17.5)
<LI> VIIC/42 (27/8.2)
<LI> VIIB (30/8.0)
<LI> IID (25/7.9)
<LI> VIIC/41 (25/7.6)
<LI> VIIC (27/7.6)
<LI> IIA (35/6.9)
<LI> IXB (35/7.3)
<LI> IXC (37/7.3)
<LI> IXC/40 (37/7.0)
<LI> IXD2 (42/6.9)
[/list]

Yes, once again, the IXD2 is the worst! Apart from the XXI, which is head-and-shoulders above the rest, the VIIC/42, VIIB and IID are all pretty much alike, although the IID is much smaller. However, there are other differences to consider.

Deck and Flak Guns

Deck gun? Forget it. You shouldn't use it. It is inefficient, and you must be on the surface, and hence very vulnerable to use it. Flak guns are even worse. Neither of these options have any bearing on the outcome, and to try to use them is inviting defeat. Thus, the XXI, IID, IIA, VIIC/41, VIIC/42 or any other late-war models are not at any disadvantage here. Do not let the guns on the U-Boat tempt you -- they are a liability.



Torpedoes

Here is the critical factor. You must choose a boat with the right torpedoes. Now depending on the year and boat type, different torpedoes will be loaded. The crucial factor is not what is already in the tubes, but rather what is in the internal reserves! Why? Because that's where all-but-your-first salvo of torpedoes will come from. With unlimited torpedoes, these internal reserves continuously "respawn", so to speak, so the selection you get here is most critical.

So what is a "good" torpedo?

Unlike ships, which tend to be more predictable and stick to a 2-dimensional surface, human-controlled U-boats are unpredictable, move in three dimensions, and can observe and react to threats. Thus, the four top torpedoes that are going to be useful are:

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-V (G7es) Zaunk??nig acoustic torpedo
<LI> T-IV (G7es) Falke acoustic torpedo
<LI> T-III FaT II (G7e) pattern torpedo
<LI> T-I FaT I (G7a) pattern torpedo
[/list]

The acoustic torpedoes are obvious. They home on the sound of the propellors and thus do not need precise solutions to hit. The Zaunk??nig (24 knots) is slightly better than the Falke (20 knots). The pattern torpedoes are also good, in that they will often change direction in the vicinity of the target, forcing the target to keep down, or surprising it with an unexpected turn (especially the first turn into the ladder pattern itself). The T-I FaT I is faster, and has a longer range, but with a bubble trail, is easier to watch its movement and judge its course. The T-III FaT II is slightly better in this regard, because although it is slower, it is more difficult to assess its direction, so it requires more observing time to figure the path out, and thus once in the area does a better job of suppressing the enemy.

If you can't get any of these "special" torpedoes (because you may, for example, be limited to 1939 U-Boats), then the good old...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-I (G7a)
<LI> T-III (G7e)
[/list]

... torpedoes will suffice. However, under no circumstances should you use the inferior...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-II (G7e)
[/list]

... which has poor range and speed. And the other torpedoes ...

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> T-I LuT I (G7a)
<LI> T-III LuT II (G7e)
<LI> T-XI (G7es)
[/list]

... are single-player campaign only, and are not available in multi-player games.

So, which U-Boats have these gems? Here is a brief assessment of the "internal reserves" of the boats worth considering in order from good to bad:

XXI
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-I FaT I, T-III FaT III, T-III
<LI> 1944 : T-V, T-I FaT I, T-III FaT III, T-III
<LI> 1943 : T-IV, T-I FaT I, T-III
[/list]

VIIC/42
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-III FaT II, T-III; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1944 : T-III FaT II, T-III; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1943 : T-I FaT I, T-III, T-I; (T-III aft)
[/list]

VIIB
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1942 : T-IV, T-I; (T-IV aft)
<LI> 1939 : T-I; (T-I aft)
[/list]

IIA and IID
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1945 : T-V, T-I
<LI> 1939 : T-I
[/list]

VIIC
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> 1944 : T-III FaT II, T-III, T-I; (T-III aft)
<LI> 1942 : T-IV, T-I; (T-IV aft)
<LI> 1939 : T-I; (T-I aft)
[/list]

So, if you're not limited in year, go for a XXI or VIIC/42. For earlier years, you'll get acoustic torpedoes from 1942 variants of the VIIB or VIIC. And if limited to earlier still, just lapse back to the 1939, rather than 1941 version. Don't even consider years not listed above - they are not worth it due to a poorer torpedo loadout.

Even for a laugh, the IIA (1945) has a T-V, and a great deal of malicious satisfaction can be derived from sinking various ??ber-Type-IXs with a IIA. Other than the six types listed above, none of the others are worth their salt. Generally speaking, the superior speed of the VIIB, makes it a better choice over the VIIC's superior dive time, but that's a choice left to the user.

Now, don't forget... it is the internal reserve that counts, not the external reserve and the already-loaded tubes count very little. We shall see why in a minute.

After you've made your choice, take a look at what the others are doing. Make a note of anyone who has gone for a VIIC/42 or a 1942 VIIB or VIIC. A Type-II from 1945 probably also indicates someone who knows what they are doing. Any of the Type-IXs are the so-called "n00bs".


Starting the game

As soon as the game loads, perform the following steps immediately, and complete them AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> Set your speed to "Ahead flank" ("5" on the keyboard) -- this will let you change depth more rapidly and make your U-Boat more manoeuverable.
<LI> Periscope depth ("P" on the keyboard) -- get away from any deck-gun enthusiasts, and get at least half way towards our "safe-depth".
<LI> Set for manual torpedo reloading ("I" to see the torpedo invetory, then un-check the circle in the top left for auto-reloading) -- this is your key to winning (see below)
<LI> Go to the torpedo screen ("F6")
<LI> Set for "salvo firing" to launch all forward tubes (located between "Tube Selecting" and "Spread Angle" towards the right).
<LI> Set for "manual solution". This is the little button to the top right of the "Speed", and just to the top-left of gyro angle. When selected, the dials to the left of it, will be highlighted with a faint yellow. You can now use them directly.
<LI> Set the "Range" (second dial from left) to something very large.
<LI> Adjust the "Bearing" (leftmost dial) until the torpedo traces on the screen are going in the general direction of any other U-Boat on the chart. Don't be picky, just get it roughly right.
<LI> Press the fire button at the top to launch all forward torpedos -- this gets rid of them for the "real" attacks, which will be set up in a minute, and also throws the cat amongst the pidgeons to stir things up and get the others moving (not that they generally need much encouragement). You may also be lucky and get a kill!
<LI> Use the Navigator to get the depth under keel.
<LI> Set your depth to 40 metres (or, if the water is shallow, just go as deep as you can up to 40 metres - there is no need to go deeper).
<LI> Go to the plotting chart ("F5" on the keyboard) and use the plotting tool to set a way point to take you away from all the other boats.
[/list]

Right. Now you can take a breather. The above procedure should be done in less than 40 seconds, but aim for 25, if you can.



The main principles

The tactic you need to employ is based on the following facts. In the game, you can only set the torpedo depth down to 25 metres. Thus, if you are down at, say, 40 metres, and your U-Boat is 10 metres high (VIIC/42), then you are safe. We shall call this "Safe-Depth".

The second fact, is that you cannnot fire your torpedoes from such depths; you have to come up to about 15 metres or so. You are vulnerable here, but you have to do it to fire. We shall call this "Firing-Depth". If you want to be lazy, you can just use the "periscope depth" key ("P"), but you'll have plenty of time, so there is no reason not to do it properly.

Unless you are firing, you should be at "Safe-Depth". When you first get down to Safe-Depth, go to the torpedo screen again ("I"). You'll notice your forward tubes are empty. So, drag the type of torpedo you want from the internal reserve up into Tube 1. It will start to load, and the torpedo in the internal reserve will re-generate itself. Now repeat that for the other torpedo tubes. This way you can load any type you have in the internal reserves into your torpedo tubes as you choose.

For the purposes of this article, we'll assume a VIIC/42 (1945) from now on. For a XXI or IID, you can probably guess how to go about doing it from this example.

So, as you move away from the other combatants, load up your forward tubes. Put a "T-III FaT II" pattern torpedo into Tube 1 and put "T-V Zaunk??nig" acoustic torpedoes into Tubes 2, 3 and 4. The FaT will launch first (showing on any event cameras), then the acoustics (which also travel 6 knots slower) will follow. The FaT will get into the area first, and force the U-Boats there to evade. Then the sound of their propellors will attract the T-Vs in for the kill.


Setting the torpedoes

However, before you launch them, set them up correctly. Go to the TDC ("F6") screen again. Set the depth of the FaT to about 10-15 metres (more if the other U-Boats are deep), or less if they are on the surface. The advantage of 10-15 metres, is that its difficult for the target to judge whether to go deep or rise up. The acoustics should be set one each to 4-5 metres, 12-15 metres and 20-25 metres. They'll all be travelling together, so this will put an "acoustic swarm" out which will cover most depths, exploding either from impact, or passing just over or jsut under the target. Even if one overshoots, it may then go after another target, or arc back around to get the original target who has since changed depth. The sequence for depth is usually to go deeper with each one. The reason for that is the best escape for the victim is down, and that way you will follow them. (But varying this pattern can be useful, of course.) If your target is staying deep, put one at exactly 25 metres -- you might just get lucky and clip the top of the target U-Boat.

So, make sure all your torpedoes are set up correctly for depth. Then adjust the gyro angle so that they are going towards the U-Boat icons on the chart. Don't worry about the target speed or angle on bow. They'll either remain stationary, or will move and attract the acoustics anyway. You will probably need to change your course slightly. However, do not head back into the fray. Distance is your friend.

Then adjust the FaT ladder pattern (running distance, leg, gyro angle, etc.) so that the torpedo will criss-cross the area with enemy U-Boats (the more the better!).


Firing the torpedoes

Before firing, use the external camera (if available) to assess the immediate area. Be wary of any nearby torpedoes, especially if they are acoustic or pattern ones. Then, prepare to fire, by rising up to "Firing-Depth". Press fire "Return"), then select the next tube ("Y"), fire, and so on. As soon as you've fired them, go straight back down to "Safe-Depth", and select the torpedoes for the next salvo. You should also reassess your course.

Naturally, a good opponent will be watching you with their external camera, so you can make use of this to bluff them into firing. If you still have a while to go until the salvo is ready, you can come up to fire a single FaT or acoustic, to provide suppressive fire. You can also pretend to rise up, but dive more or less immediately, possibly provoking your opponent to fire off their salvo, or to rise up when there are other hostile torpedoes in their area.


Other considerations

Make sure your crews are assigned to give maximum efficiency to torpedo reloading. Also put a damage repair team in place with any left overs. It might help you stabilise damage faster, should you be hit.

You may have aft torpedoes as well. In particular, the VIIB and VIIC (1942 models) both have T-IV Falke torpedo reloads in the aft reserve. This means that in principle these U-Boats can put five acoustics into an area. At a sufficient distance, you can slowly cycle around the forward and aft tubes, firing them alternately at 1 minute intervals to keep the enemy suppressed.

Keep moving away from the enemy, to maintain a safe distance. The distance means you'll have time to react in the case of a launch of torpedoes. However, the limited ranges of your own torpedoes will dictate a maximum value beyind which it's srt of pointless to wander further. By having a faster underwater U-Boat, you can dictate the distance you want. This is another advantage of the VIIC/42 and, to a lesser extent, the VIIB. (If one person has a XXI, everyone will, so there is no real chance for an advantage here.)

Also, try to keep your U-Boat end-on to any attacks. It'll have a smaller profile that way. And watch out as incoming FaTs can suddenly change through 90 degrees to come at you broadside.


Summary

That's pretty much it. As I say, I've used this with perfect results; hopefully you will have equal amounts of success with it.

Good luck with your sub-vs-sub missions!

Bootsmann0815
11-13-2006, 03:06 PM
The article sounds very reasonably argued http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_cool.gif, but I wonder whether people are really playing this? http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif Or is this more like one for the short story competition? http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-wink.gif<div class="ev_tpc_signature">

Use the vertical!

comanderFritz
11-13-2006, 04:14 PM
is the 34th doing this now?<div class="ev_tpc_signature">

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/tuddley3/usaCa.gif http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/944/signaturexl5.jpg http://www.ashlandalliance.com/assets/images/kentucky_flag_waving.gif
http://4thflotilla.proboards49.com/index.cgi
http://hosted.filefront.com/comanderfritz/

jake_nukem
11-13-2006, 10:10 PM
I dont need no stinkin manual, but other people might and its good!

Usually i take the IXD2 and destroy everyone cos i DOMINATE the servers most of the time, and i usually surface boat and plague them with my deck cannon no matter what you all think!

Dietrich-34.F
11-14-2006, 01:51 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by comanderFritz:
is the 34th doing this now? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Goodness no!

The 34th is moving towards more and more realism the whole time - and sinking other U-Boats is verboten!

That's the reason for posting here... normally our tactics articles all go onto our own forums. But this sub-vs-sub thing was just something I tried for myself following an incident in one of our public games, when some member of the public turned on members of our flotilla. Sort of led to me wonder how one would go about sub-vs-sub and this was the result.

Baldricks_Mate
11-14-2006, 02:49 PM
Thats no version of sub v sub I've played.

Ring Of Death:

Custom map, playing arena ringed by sub net, 25m depth, mined on bottom to stop chickens hiding, icebergs for cover, no unlimited torps.

Big subs = slower moving = easy target http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/compsmash.gif

8 go in, 1 comes out. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif<div class="ev_tpc_signature">

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/Baldricks_Mate/BlankSigPicstage8sigfriendlyformatt.jpg
When veterans get together it doesn't matter who won or lost - it is enough that they survived...Admiral K A Markorov

U107Wolff
11-15-2006, 02:40 PM
I think Dietrich his guide is mostly correct. Reminds me a bit of the O-10 battles we did in the old days of the 34th.<div class="ev_tpc_signature">

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/1632/u8badge4gs.jpg
http://www.freewebs.com/88thflotilla/

hard_hans
11-17-2006, 05:59 PM
i just stick on the surface at flank speed pounding with deck gun and close range manual torping does the trick every time.