PDA

View Full Version : OT: got an airbrush set as gift - cool



WildeSau
12-25-2004, 02:54 PM
got a very professional Aztek airbrush set from my sister as a Christmas gift - to cool - now I can start creating all the models I have in a really professional way! Thanks sister.

Merry Christmas to all of you.

WildeSau

WildeSau
12-25-2004, 02:54 PM
got a very professional Aztek airbrush set from my sister as a Christmas gift - to cool - now I can start creating all the models I have in a really professional way! Thanks sister.

Merry Christmas to all of you.

WildeSau

FoolTrottel
12-25-2004, 04:38 PM
You are a happy man!
(I still use a normal hairy brush... still have P51, Ju87, Me109, Fw190 in-the-box, all on 1/24 scale... now working on an IL-2M 1/72 scale)

Just make sure you don't point that airbrush at your PF paintschemes! ;-)

WildeSau
12-25-2004, 05:23 PM
yes I am - thanks to my sister http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

It's the professional set with 6 different nozzles.

I now have to get a air compressor too since the air bottles won't do it anymore.

Cool - from where did you get the Il-2 modell? Didn't find one but wanted to make one.

I start working on a He-111 H from Revell in 1/48 and too have unbuild a Ju-87 D, a Me-110 G, a Me-109 E and G model.

Wouldn't be wise to point it at the PF models I think http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif but need a new monitor anyway - so why don't give it a try http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-tongue.gif

Wish you happy hours of building your models and flying PF.

All the best and happy Christmas.

WildeSau

Dean_Clean
12-25-2004, 05:56 PM
Got the same set last Christmas...you're gonna love it I'm sure. Cleanup is so easy.

Me, I got a 3-ton hydraulic floor jack! http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

westcoastphil
12-25-2004, 07:20 PM
Now you'll have fun mottling German AC like this:
http://members.cox.net/riknbkr330/images/109e7.JPG

Mjollnir111675
12-25-2004, 07:31 PM
Congrats on the 'brush!!

I myself own 2 badger double actions,1 Paasche single action(model H) and a Bluepoint which is identical in every way to a badger even when it comes to parts interchangeability but I received it from an auto mechanic who said he got it from either snap-on or Mac (cant remember) @ his garage and I love 'em!!
Mottling.weathering,metallizing(?),awesome burnt aluminun effects,exhuaust,dioramas, ya just cant get from reg. brushes.let alone getting into glass etching which is really fun alone.

As far as making skins with them for a game I have fiddled with an armor sim and when its skins are layed out flat I made a template on paperboard made my scheme scanned it in,scaled it and man its great!
I only wish puter programs were as easy as actually doing it on canvas,leather.polystyrene,metal or any other media.
I haven't delved into P.f.'s skin construction cuz I dont know if I can take the same approach.

Anyways ROCK ON MAN!! http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif


http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get torp plane who is gonna model the torps themselves? And the fleet?"

FoolTrottel
12-26-2004, 03:50 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by WildeSau:
yes I am - thanks to my sister http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

It's the professional set with 6 different nozzles.

I now have to get a air compressor too since the air bottles won't do it anymore.

Cool - from where did you get the Il-2 modell? Didn't find one but wanted to make one.

I start working on a He-111 H from Revell in 1/48 and too have unbuild a Ju-87 D, a Me-110 G, a Me-109 E and G model.

Wouldn't be wise to point it at the PF models I think http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif but need a new monitor anyway - so why don't give it a try http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-tongue.gif

Wish you happy hours of building your models and flying PF.

All the best and happy Christmas.

WildeSau <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I got it from a local toy/hobby shop. It'd been lying 'round there for years...
It's a Russian production I guess...

Here's the box, frontside:
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/FoolTrottel-IL2Front.jpg
And the back side
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/FoolTrottel-IL2Back.jpg

Merry Christmas to you too!

While I'm at it: Here's a pic from ready models, 1/24 Hurricane MkI (though it has lost its gear....) and in the background 1/32 Boeing P12E
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/FoolTrottel-HurricaneP12E.jpg

WildeSau
12-26-2004, 10:38 AM
wow - these models look (the Hurrie and the E-4)good man.

Is the Me-109 from Hasegawa, Westcoastphil?

Hope I will be able to create them in a similar way.

Never heard of this company from which the Il-2 is. Hope to find one since as owner of the Il-2 game series, it's a must to have it modelled.

Wish you all a lot of fun with your hobbies (modelling and virtual flying).

WildeSau

scottmal1
12-26-2004, 10:55 AM
i believe that the 'toko' il2 is not in production anymore, i managed to pick up a new one on ebay in the uk a couple of weeks ago, i also got one on ebay in 1/72 by a company called 'smer' which are a czech company, they are both early single seater versions, and are of a good quality, although i'm going to put a 'neomega' resin cockpit kit in the toko one, i've also just aquired two new 'accurate miniatures' 1/48 il2's, one is a early single seater on ski's (apparently discontinued) this ones in the post and also i've got the late 3m, which although on the expensive side (25)is an excellent kit

WildeSau
12-26-2004, 11:08 AM
thanks for sharing these infos - hope to get one.

Have fun building yours

S! WildeSau

WildeSau
12-26-2004, 02:13 PM
hey FoolTrottel (cool name btw - I am from Switzerland and therefore can speak German http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-wink.gif), did you paint your Hurrie just with normal brushes?

I must say, it looks very very good - above all the motor section.

Have a Hurrie too to be built - it's a Mk IIc - the cannon version but only in 1/48.

WildeSau

westcoastphil
12-26-2004, 03:27 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by WildeSau:
wow - these models look (the Hurrie and the E-4)good man.

Is the Me-109 from Hasegawa, Westcoastphil?

Hope I will be able to create them in a similar way.

WildeSau <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the compliment.

The E-4 is a Tamiya kit. I like their kits. Hasagawas are good, but they nee a little more work here and there...very minor though.

All I can say is practice, practice, practice on mottling, etc.

FoolTrottel
12-26-2004, 03:32 PM
Yep, all done with normal brushes.
Some effect's were done using nearly dried out paint, and an old rather ridged brush....

The 'FoolTrottel' might make you think I am German, but I'm not. (though I do speak some German, but not to good though..) I'm a Dutchie http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-tongue.gif ... let's keep it English.. ;-)

The hurri mainly looks good as it's a great model, 1/24, nice & detailed, it took some effort to get 'Rolls Royce' naming in red...
Ah, and the panel beneath the cockpitdoor I did cut it out myself, to open it up a bit more.

It is sooo nice to build these models, if I only had the room to 'display' them in.
(I would not want to count the numbers of models I've built and got rid of once they were ready.....
Because of this I've set myself a rule not to buy/build smaller than 1/24th scale. Lot less choice then... but, I did buy the Il-2M so the rule does not seem to be working.)

Good luck on that Hurri 1/48... but, wouldn't that be too small to be paintbrushing it?

WildeSau
12-26-2004, 08:38 PM
westcoastphil, it looks really good - I have a Hasegawa kit of the E-4 and want to paint it as yours (desert look) since I have the version used there.

With practice, practice you are certainly right - have built models back when I was a teen, and get hooked again now. The ones I built back then weren't looking that good but know I will take more time and hope to get some good nice models built.

FoolTrottel, can imagine that it used some efforts to make this plane looking like this. But it's certainly worth it.

Oh I see - a Dutch - you guys often speak good German.

I think a 1/48 model can be paint brushed too - even 1/72 ones are out that look really good which are only painted by brushes. Have a look at Model-News (http://www.model-news.com/lesgal/hellcat/helc72.htm).

I think that the 1/48 scale is quiet good for bombers but too for fighters since most models are available in this scale. Some WWII fighers I really love, I build as well in 1/32 which is an ideal scale since many more planes are avilable in this scale than in 1/24.

WildeSau

civildog
12-27-2004, 02:39 AM
You NEED to get not only the compressor but the IL2M3 from Accurate Miniatures. The kit is amazing and practically builds itself.

www.accurate-miniatures.com/catalog/3407.htm (http://www.accurate-miniatures.com/catalog/3407.htm)

I added the Eduard photo-etch set to mine and made some custom markings for Twice Hero-of-the-Soviet Union I. Pauvlov's plane on my printer. It looks like it could actually fly.

I have an Aztec like your's, too. The paint for acrylics needs to be as thin as milk or it can cause clogging in those nozzles. Especially with some colors more than others. I also found the side cups better for feeding the paint. Enamels work better.

I also have a Badger 360, so I use the Aztek for enamels only now. And get an in-line water trap for the compressor. Most of the moisture builds up in the line and will really mess up your paint job.

Here's a tip: get a silver pencil for the paint chipping effects like Trottel's...it's easier to control and then you can use silver paint for the "newer" chips, too.

Here's a link to my I-16 to show an example. You can see the chipping along the edge of the sheetmetal cowling. I couldn't do that with a brush, I'm too out of practice after a 30 year hiatus from building kits as a kid.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/civildog/01.jpg

Practice, practice...and have fun!

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 07:48 AM
thanks for that CivilDog, didn't know that there is a Il-2 from Accurate Miniatures - got a Dauntless from them.

Thank you too for your hints.

What exactly do you mean with "get in line water trap for your compressor"?

I intent to get one from "Faller" called AirMaster.

Your I-16 looks very nice man. Have you got a photo of your Il-2? Would interest me.

Again thanks.

WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-27-2004, 07:59 AM
an in line "water trap" is a moisture trap. They catch all the humidity from the compressor which in -turn keeps yer airbrushes from corroding internally!! YES DO INDEED BUY ONE!! they are an inexpensive way to increase the life span of yer brushes!!



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get the torp planes who is gonna model the torps themselves?And the fleet??"

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 08:03 AM
Mjollnir111675, thanks for that.

They seem to be much more expensive than the ones witout...Jesus, it's going to be more expensive than I thought - and a new PC would be weclcome as well.... http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/35.gif

WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-27-2004, 08:24 AM
A nice badger moisture trap as the one I have(Badger part #50-2014) I believe was 4 or 5 dollars(w/o air line ). It has a bleed off valve which some do not which is good fer releasing the built up moisture so that is good to have, also you CAN buy a reusable type but fear of model changes has always stopped me from doin that.
But moisture as stated above by CivilDog also affects yer finish quality.
But if you do not have one, the compressor is what is REALLY gonna knock yer knees together!!
To just give you my example my paasche model/type H I have had since I was 12(first model:OV-10 Bronco http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif) and I am now 29!! NO internal corrosion or chrome flakeage at all!!
And all of my other brushes are @least 10 yrs in my ownership. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get torp planes who is gonna model the torps themselves? And the fleet??"

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 08:47 AM
I am bit confused now - you say I can get this thing for the compressor that don't makes my airbrush corroding is available at about 5 US dollars?

I cannot believe that!

I have here a catalogue showing two different compressors (Faller AirMaster and AirBoss). The AirBoss including a "Wasserabschneider" which I think is what you mean with water trap (I am German speaking...) is about more than 100US more expensive than the other - of course it has also more power, etc.

You mean I can buy the less expensive one but add the water trap to it?

Thanks for helping me.

WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-27-2004, 09:00 AM
ok I looked around and is the catalog you refer to Moduni??
If so those moisture filters you see are integral and yes THOSE types are expensive.
I am speaking of an inline moisture trap which is installed in between the airbrush in yer hand and the compressor itself.
Those on the compressors you speak of are refillable/usable.
The ones I use have an absorbent tube ,if you will, and when they expand so much off they go and a new one is installed. ALOT cheaper.
Now the ones you see on those big compressors I have on me compressor in the GARAGE!! http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get torp planes who is gonna model the torps themselves? And the fleet??"

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 09:12 AM
ah - clear to me now.

No, I am refering to the Aztek catalogue and and the compressors of the company Faller - it's a good know company in Germany and Switzerland. Hope there is something similar for them as what you mentioned.

Where did you get yours and from which company are they?

Thanks so much for your help.

WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-27-2004, 09:34 AM
Badger Part # 50-2014.
I go to my local hobby shop to get supplies.
You may even be able to find one at yer local hardware store.

No problem and have fun!! http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get torp planes who is gonna model the torps themselves? And the fleet??"

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 09:51 AM
hey thansk.

Do you think it's gone work too for my Aztek airbrush in connection with a Faller compressor?

If you know great - otherwise I will ask my hobby store.

Thanks and have fun too.

WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-27-2004, 10:07 AM
Yes it will definately work with that set-up!!
It only requires you to cut the air supply hose and install between.


http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/873935/aVENGE.jpg
"SO..IF we DO get torp planes who is gonna model the torps themselves? And the fleet??"

WildeSau
12-27-2004, 10:21 AM
sorry for comming back always with new questions, but this is all new for me.

To be honest, I have no clue what the air supply hose is...

Is that something I can do - without damaging something?

BTW, I made a search on Google on that Badger product, but didn't find anything. Is this something only available in the US?

WildeSau

civildog
12-27-2004, 04:37 PM
WildeSau....

Thanks, but the I-16 is the only kist I have pics of on the computer. Santa didn't bring me a digital camera this year and I took those last month with one I borrowed form a friend so I could post them to an online article.

Now that Christmas is over and I've finished hemorraging money on the kids' and wife's presents I'll treat myself to a digital camera next month. Then I'll take some pics of all my kits as I work on them and complete them. I'll try to remember to send you the ones of the IL2 at that time.

If you go to this link, though, you'll see an IL2 kit that inspired mine, though I didn't make all the modifications this guy did. I didn't drop the flaps or open the bomb bays. I also have a resin set of pilot and gunner figures for the plane, but haven't painted them yet. Right now I'm too busy finishing the Helldiver my wife & kids got me for Father's Day, and the Ho-229.

So many kits. so little time! So check this article out, it'll inspire you:

www.kitparade.com/features00/il2m3mp_1.htm (http://www.kitparade.com/features00/il2m3mp_1.htm)

The only other thing I did differently was to use the 37mm cannon gondolas. It's a little artistc license, but I prefer the look of them. Who knows, Pauvlov might've used those at some point anyway.

moonsign
12-27-2004, 10:21 PM
heh!heh! moonsign here. does handle give you a clue as to what i do? I am refered here in the states as a Sign/Artist. I do and have done work on movie star's vechicles/ sets, custom cars, and assorted other "goodies". I currently have about 14 airbrushes, including Iwata Micron. Iwata airbrushes are the only way to go, for anything. Been airbrushing for 30 years."Micron" will put fuzz on a frogs butt, in detail,[as long as he does'nt jump] moonsign out.

aminx
12-27-2004, 10:34 PM
WILDESAU
--------

dont forget to go to AIRCRAFT RESOURCE CENTER for help,tutorials etc,From the US i order from GREAT MODELS,good site as well.
Have fun
aminx

civildog
12-27-2004, 10:45 PM
I concur! Great Models has great prices and fast service. I had a couple of kits with defective parts and they replaced the whole sprue both times without any problems!

www.greatmodels.com (http://www.greatmodels.com)

And go here: www.hyperscale.com (http://www.hyperscale.com)

And here: www.aircraftresourcecenter.com (http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com)

WildeSau
12-28-2004, 04:50 AM
thanks to you all guys - these are some helpful sites.

CivilDog - hope you get your Digital Camera soon - I got one this year from the company I work for for being 10 years with them.

Hey, this Il-2 looks damm good - specially the cockpit.

Will get one from Accurate Miniatures - that's for sure.

WildeSau

TwoTall2
12-28-2004, 05:38 AM
WildeSau congrats on the airbrush it REALLY makes a difference to the finish of your kits.I have the little brother of that 1 and I am not sorry I bought it. The nozzles aren't to pricey eiher http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif I am currently building a trumpeter 1/24 P-51D Mustang.
You can also approach your local IPMS (International Plastic Model Society)the different chapters do have their own website e.g. www.ipmssa.za.org (http://www.ipmssa.za.org).
I see trumpeter have brought out a 1/24 scale FW190D which looks absolutely gorgeous to build.

well happy modelling, I will hopefully see you all online around mid January http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

WildeSau
12-28-2004, 06:54 AM
thanks twotall2 - good link.

Yeap, cannot wait until I can start using it - first need to get a compressor.

Does anyone of you know from where I can get a inline moisture trap - a kind of a filter which can be installed between the airbrush and the compressor (Badger Part # 50-2014) to avoid corroding?

I am living in Switzerland and didn't find anything on the internet under Badger Part # 50-2014 but would be good to get something that doesn't make my airbrush coording.

Thanks.

WildeSau

TwoTall2
12-28-2004, 07:04 AM
I didn't use a compressor at first, I used canisters and a bowl of warm water, and although it is a "need to have" I haven't used a moisture trap I can't afford it yet, and I couldn't wait so I bought the compressor, I tend to build up the hobby stuff in stages. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

FoolTrottel
12-28-2004, 08:45 AM
WildeSau,

You did not find anything, or not anything usefull? I get 2 google-pages, 24 hits...??

WildeSau
12-28-2004, 09:36 AM
Fool Trottle, I mean I didn't find anything usefull.

In this post someone is talking from a water trap which costs not more than 5 USD and which should be avialable under this part no.

Thanks.
WildeSau

Mjollnir111675
12-28-2004, 10:12 AM
@Wildsau:

Check your p.m.

horseback
12-28-2004, 11:19 PM
Wildesau-

I made model airplanes for almost 40 years-I'm currently on hiatus (due to all the time I spend on flight sims), but while I used airbrushes almost exclusively, I never bought one of those specialized compressors or canned air.

I bought one of those air tanks that auto parts stores sell that can be refilled at the gas (or petrol) stations. All I needed was to add a pressure adjust (there's a fancy name for it, but It's one of those 'right on the tip of my tongue' things), a hose adaptor and a filter/moisture trap (Badger makes hoses with filter attached, seperate filters, and hose adaptors). It ran me less than $50 total, and still works like a charm.

Filled, one tankfull of air (110 lbs per square inch) is sufficient for two 1/48th scale 3-color camo jobs, plus interiors. I eventually got a household compressor for my two boys' inflateable kiddy pools, airmattresses, and balls. Its' utility for my airtank was strictly coincidental...

cheers

horseback

WildeSau
12-29-2004, 08:02 AM
thanks Horseback - it's cool to see all this help from you guys.

Thanks alot.

WildeSau

JHAT-
12-29-2004, 08:05 AM
Zveda makes nice il2 models, as well as ,many other russian planes (like mig 3). There are many sites online that sell it, i just can t remember any of them though.

WildeSau
12-29-2004, 01:59 PM
thanks Jhat, but the one from Accurate Miniatures looks great too and all their models are of very high quality. Have a 1/48 Dauntless (SBD-3) from them which is a beauty.

WildeSau

civildog
12-29-2004, 02:06 PM
And ICM makes a beautiful 1/48th MiG-3. Trumpeter makes one in 1/32nd. To give you an idea of what the difference in them is: The 1/48th kit is the same size as my little Academy 1/48th I-16 (about 4 1/2" long), but the 1/32nd MiG is as big as my 1/48th P-47 (about 10" long)!

I generally prefer 1/48th, a good scale to scratchbuild and paint detail but not so big as to make displaying them a space problem. I need to get going on these things. I have a closet stacked with enough planes and tanks to start a war if I can just get the time to work on them more.

I have mostly Russian armor, 50's-70's US and Soviet planes (but I have the obligatory F-16CJ, F-15E, and a MiG-29A), WW2 Russian, US, and Japanese, and German planes. I'll get a Spitfire I/II eventually.

Achilles97
12-29-2004, 07:53 PM
I just got a compressor for Christmas. I haven't modeled for 5 years, but I'm gonna pull my Aztec out of the closet and do some models.

I haven't built a Russian plane, so I'm gonna try the Il2 from Accurate Miniatures and a Yak-9 (can't find a Yak-3). I'm gonna do another FW190 one of these days, I did an Arii 1/48 FW190A, but it looks wrong, it's not shaped correctly - the engine cowl is way too small.

Anyway, I really like the weathering done on the Hurricane posted by FoolTrottel.


What's everyone's opinion on Acrylics vs Enamels? I've always used Enamels, but I don't have an outdoor place to spray now, so I'm thinking about Acrylics. Do they cover well? Are they easy to work with?

civildog
12-30-2004, 01:07 AM
Go here for your Yak-3...they have three Eduard 1/48th versions in stock right now.

www.greatmodels.com (http://www.greatmodels.com)

Here's a review of one of the kits they have for $19.00. It looks pretty good.

http://m2reviews.cnsi.net/reviews/allies/spahryak3.htm

Acrylics clean up easy, cover in thinner layers (which means they don't cover as well, but that's ok because two or three thin coats are much much better than one thick one), and they dry faster. If you screw up they can easily be removed before they have fully cured with rubbing alcohol. Flat Acrylics tend to dry faster in an airbrush (during big jobs) and can therefore clog it or cause spitting if you are not careful with air pressure (use a little less to solve it). They pick up moisture during airbrushing in high humidity and that can mess up a good paint job.

The down side is that they don't bond to the plastic like Enamels because they don't have those solvents. But - they dry nice and tight to the surface and are fine to mask with tape after you give them a day to cure. Flat Enamels flow better in all kinds of weather through an airbrush.

I use both becasue you can't always find the colors you want in only one or the other. I prefer Gunze Sangyo (Acrylic)or Model Master (both) for airbrushing and those two plus Tamiya (acrylic) for hand brushing. Gunze and Tamiya acrylics can be thinned with rubbing alcohol (50/50) for airbrushing and Model Master (acrylic) needs water. Alcohol will ruin it.

Enamels use about the same ratio of thinner to paint for airbrushing.

I use acrylics almost exclusively for brush painting because they are nontoxic (fume and otherwise), cover well in thin layers (good for detail work) and clean up with soap and water so my brushes last longer.

I airbrush with both depending on the color I use (yes, even the same color by the same maker can differ between the two types) and what I am trying to do. I ALWAYS SPRAY OUTDOORS OR IN AN OTHERWISE WELL VENTED AREA. Even the acrylic mist will harm your lungs from an airbrush and the vapors off enamels are no fun at all. If you blow your nose after painting and it comes up in the paint color you need a mask or a better ventilated area to paint!

I also prefer to gloss coat my plane exteriors before decaling with Future floor polish so the decals go down tight and clean, and to add a wash to darken the panel lines, etc easier. Another coat of Future, then a matte or semi-matte coat to deaden the finish and make the decals look painted on. This can be done with either type of paint.

Whew! I think that'll cover it for now?

WildeSau
12-30-2004, 12:44 PM
interesting read Civil dog.

One question, can I use colors from Humbrol in an airbrush gun or do I have to get special color?

WildeSau

civildog
12-30-2004, 04:55 PM
WildeSau:

You can shoot anything through an airbrush as long as it's mixed and thinned enough (and some things don't even need to be thinned, the Future I mentioned I shoot straight from the bottle in light coats then clean my brush with soapy water.). Just stir it until it's thouroghly mixed. You can strain a little through some nylon mesh into a jar to make sure there are no clumps. Then use Humbrel's thinner or Floquil Diosol to thin it for spraying. The key to all of this alchemical thinning, mixing, spraying is to use thin coats and not try to build the color up in one thick gloppy one.

BTW: Diosol is a "hot" solvent thinner so it works great at cleaning out enamels from inside your brush after you are done painting, or just for blowing through your brush till it's clear to make it ready for the next color if you are just switching colors right away. It also causes the enamels to dry faster. NOT for use with acrylics at all.

For air pressure, I use about 15psi for most jobs, maybe down to 10-12 for very small areas or for just a light "dust" overcoat to simulate fading and dust on a tank or the top of a plane's wings (if it's a desert, Pacific, or just worn down plane), and 20psi for most acrylics for the single color overall jobs. If I'm doing a camo pattern freehand or otherwise then the acrylics get 15%, too after the first over all coat.


Aslo...for acrylics....since they don't stick to the surface as well as enamels (no solvents) the first couple of coats are just light dusting coasts to build up something rough for the last smooth coat to stick to.

WildeSau
12-31-2004, 07:45 AM
thanks for that Civil Dog. Got some colors of a company called Barva - they have all the RLM (Luftwaffe) colors - good to know I can used them as well.

Thanks again.

WildeSau

bob_the_Skull
12-31-2004, 05:35 PM
Congratulations,
A couple of note from my experience with the Aztek.
Don't clean the Aztek by spraying water through it. It seems water soaks into the O rings and expands them making them wear out faster. Use Airbrush cleaner only. If you use acrylic paints thin them to the consitency of milk.
Tamiyia Paints and Model master Acryl are on the thick side and need some thining.
Guunze Sanyo Aqueous Hobby color works pretty well right out of the bottle.
I think since your in Europe you proably have Revell Color and Humbrol paints. I don't have any experience Airbrushing with those piants.

If you can invest in a Co2 tank and a regulator.
It's about $125-$150 for the inital set up.
After that I've spent $25 to fill it up once in the two years I've had mine. Unlike an air compressor it's quite and preasure is always steady.
I can also work late at night and not bother anyone.
Here are a few links I found.
have fun,
Mike
Swiss Branch of the IPMS
http://www.scalemodelindex.com/clubsint.htm
http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/TnT_Archives/Airbrushing.htm
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7055

WildeSau
01-02-2005, 07:29 AM
Hey Bob the Skull - many thanks for these links and your hints.

I have Humbrol, Revell, Tamyia and AGAMA colors - they all need to be thinned.

Have fun and thanks again.

WildeSau

WildeSau
01-02-2005, 11:54 AM
I have a question - how do you apply these mottles as on the Bf109 of westcoastphil (see the first page of this post)? Do you apply them by hand or by using a stencils?

Just wondering.

Thanks.

WildeSau

PapaSmurf630
01-02-2005, 12:24 PM
Hey, I think you're asking in the wrong forums.

Go to www.aircraftresourcecenter.com (http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com) and click on the discussion section at the top. The community is really really helpful and will answer any questions you have. Some very professional work comes out of there so it's probably the best place to go.

I_Jg3_BARKHORN
01-02-2005, 12:51 PM
freehand. Get a compressor, and practice. No two people are going to airbrush the same. Some of my stuff.
http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/P-40/tiger2.JPG
http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/Bf109/P1010114.JPG

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/109/P1010097.JPG

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/F105/RobF105-001.jpg

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/spit/P1010101.JPG

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory/RobColvin/Fw190/P1010139.JPG

civildog
01-02-2005, 04:40 PM
You can do it by hand brushing or there are 2 other ways...both of which I have used at one time or another:

1)buy or make a stencil in random mottle patterns and spray thoguh that ... use some Blu-tac putty (or similar reusable putty like the kind for sticking posters to walls, etc..) to attach the stencil and give it a standoff of about 2-3mm so it has a soft edge. Then spray through that. Use a heavy bond paper or similar to make the stencils so it will flex over the curves but stiff enough to not just blow around.

2) The Aztek you have sounds like the double action I have. Set the air pressure low...10-25PSI...then start the air by pressing down...but just a little (This, and freehand softedge camo patterns is where the practice pays off.), and then gradually pull the trigger back without increasing the airpressure till you get the paint going. Use the fine nozzle. and then just make random mottles. If you mess up just let it dry, then paint over it, or if using acrylics, then use rubbing alcohol (90% is best) and a cotton swab to wipe it off before it cures.

Nowadays I just use my airbrush and freehand it, it's faster, but I still make mistakes...usually like too much paint too fast on a blotch and it then looks bad, but easy enough to fix.

WildeSau
01-03-2005, 04:48 AM
hey bakhorn - that Dora is looking great.

To CivilDog - yes, I have the double action. Dump question - do I have to adjust the airpressure at the compressor or at the airbrush gun? What do you mean by a freehand softedge camo patterns?

What are your stencils made of?

Thanks.

WildeSau

PapaSmurf630
01-03-2005, 08:38 AM
Freehand soft edge camo pattern is where you don't use any masking to do the edges of the camo, so you're doing it 'free hand'. Soft edge means an edge that isn't 'sharp'. It's blurry. This can only be achieved by airbrushing. For example, if you got a black peice of paper and layed it across a white peice of paper, the edge where the black meets the white would be a 'hard' edge.

If you want a hard edge when maskign your models, you stick the mask straight onto your model. This prevents any paint from getting under the mask so it'll be a very sharp edge. If you want a softer, more subtle edge, you lift the mask of the plastic ever so slightly by sticking tiny lumps of blu tak under the mask around the edges. This lifts the mask of the model and allows a small amount of paint particles to get underneath the mask making a soft edge.

I_Jg3_BARKHORN
01-03-2005, 09:03 AM
Some aircraft like a spitfire used rubber mats at the factory to paint the camo. Hard edge as mentioned above. Splinter pattern on a 109 is a hard edge as well. Late war rlm82,83,76 on a d9 is usally a soft edge. Anywho u can adjust your pressure at the tank if you compressor has a regulator. I shoot paint all over the place, as high as 50 psi to as low to 15 psi. It depends on type of paint, how it is thinned, and the look you are going for. imho the best thing to do is get a very inexspensive kit that you really do not like and slap it together and paint. try diffrent pressure, paint, how close u get the brush to it and so on. This way if u mess it up u are out a couple bucks , but u got a good education from it. perhaps at this point u are a quick learner and are prepared to go onto the kits you like. Practice!!! All my stuff of top is 32nd.

civildog
01-03-2005, 09:32 AM
WildeSau-

I see you got the answers to the camo edging.

I use various frisket papers (from craft stores), and heavy bond paper to make the stencils. The frisket is good for hard edged painting like numbers and insignia that I don't have decals for or for where I just think paint would look better.

For soft edges I use the putty/heavy paper trick or freehand it if it's not too complex. For heavy paper (which works great for stencils of numbers on flat areas, too) I use manila folder paper. If it needs to be curved around small ares then I use something more flexible like headvy bond paper. Or I just do it freehand,which I'm getting better at.

For hardedge camo patterns I use a product you can get from model suppliers online called Parafilm. It's really thin, and it sticks to the surface without pulling up any paint.

Most of my kits have softedge patterns...F-105, Helldiver, F-100, etc...I only have a couple that need a hard edge to the lines, other than the numbering, so I practice, practice, practice.

And yes, you adjust the air pressure at the compressor AND to a degree with the brush. Push the brush's button up and down and you get more or less air. But the pressure adjusted at the compressor determines the FORCE that the AMOUNT of air your button pushing creates. Basically you don't want the air blasting out, around a 10-20PSI range is perfect for anything. Higher pressure for large areas covered in one color and lower pressures for detail work and using bare metal finish laquers (like AlcladII..makes for those unpainted plane skins like P-47's, Mustangs, undesides of some late war German planes, and 50-60's jets).

In fact a friend and I are making 1/48th P-39-Q-10's modeled and painted after the squadron skins we use online, so this all does relate to FB/AEP/PF! These are bare metal (AlcladII aluminum, black and yellow acrylics, and decals done up on my printer)

Practice and experiment. It's not nearly as hard as it all sounds.

WildeSau
01-04-2005, 05:45 AM
Thank you so much CivilDog. Think I have now enough information so that I can go and try out.

Will let you know how it worked.

Again thanks to all of you for being so helpful.

Greetings from Switzerland.

WildeSau