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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:25 AM
I recently got a Timaya Do-335 B2 kit. Very nice kit! Im using it to help me model. Anyways, my question is this. I recently found a P-63C model at a hobby store. It's made by a French maker, FM (Forge Minitures or something like that). Does anyone know the quality of these kits? I want to know if its any good before I plunk down 29$! Its expensive because its imported, but so far its the ONLY P-63C 1/48 I have seen!!!

Also, I am gettign back into models. I have done MANY MANY of them when I was a kid (always rushed through them). Now that I did the Do-335, I realized how much fun it is! The only problem is I have nowere to put them. I was thinking of putting the finished kit up on E-bay or something like that. Maybe a IL2/Do-335 fan would like it. Im not pro, but I am taking my time, painting the instraments and using the correct RLM colors and stuff. I think it will look very nice once its done! Anyone interested?

Also, any other plastic model kit builders out there that can share some masking secrets? I masked and sprayed the nose cowel of the Do and the light blue has a thick like were the masking take was. How do you keep from getting that thick line? I had to spray on the blue thick in order to keep the dark green under it from showing through. Im using Timaya sprays (1$ each at the local hobby store!) and I DONT have the money for an airbrush set.

Gib

I am now accepting donations to help get the PBY flyable.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:25 AM
I recently got a Timaya Do-335 B2 kit. Very nice kit! Im using it to help me model. Anyways, my question is this. I recently found a P-63C model at a hobby store. It's made by a French maker, FM (Forge Minitures or something like that). Does anyone know the quality of these kits? I want to know if its any good before I plunk down 29$! Its expensive because its imported, but so far its the ONLY P-63C 1/48 I have seen!!!

Also, I am gettign back into models. I have done MANY MANY of them when I was a kid (always rushed through them). Now that I did the Do-335, I realized how much fun it is! The only problem is I have nowere to put them. I was thinking of putting the finished kit up on E-bay or something like that. Maybe a IL2/Do-335 fan would like it. Im not pro, but I am taking my time, painting the instraments and using the correct RLM colors and stuff. I think it will look very nice once its done! Anyone interested?

Also, any other plastic model kit builders out there that can share some masking secrets? I masked and sprayed the nose cowel of the Do and the light blue has a thick like were the masking take was. How do you keep from getting that thick line? I had to spray on the blue thick in order to keep the dark green under it from showing through. Im using Timaya sprays (1$ each at the local hobby store!) and I DONT have the money for an airbrush set.

Gib

I am now accepting donations to help get the PBY flyable.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:28 AM
I have had good experiences with French made models...they still require some tweaking to make them perfect, but they are decent kits.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:46 AM
I'm not sure about the FM models. Have you assembled any of the Hasegawa kits? They are very highly detailed. I had an Fw190 that got broke up moving lol. But I still have in the box a P-51D & B model and an A6m5c Zero. I bought them geez, like 10 years ago and they were around 30 dollars. They are 1:32 scale and like I said, are very highly detailed and make beautiful planes when completed. If you find a shop that has them or can get them you may have to special order most of them. Heres a link to two models. A C and an A model. http://www.aviapress.com/viewonekit.htm?EST-72141
http://www.aviapress.com/viewonekit.htm?EST-72140 I dont know anything about the company though. Its only 7 bucks as far as I can tell.


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Message Edited on 09/18/0310:13PM by Redwulf__55

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:50 AM
I know which one your talking about. I saw the kit and the moldings are OK, but the fit is very bad. Detail is only OK. Im heavy into modelling and the thing I always do is check online and look at kit reviews. I just finished a I-153 from Classic Airframes. Am in the process of finishing a bf-109g-10 from Hasegawa. The company you are talking about is kinda poor quality. I definately would pass on that kit. I think Monogram makes a P-63, check online.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:57 AM
I believe the FM P-63 uses tooling from the Hi-Tech kit. I've not built it myself but the word on the street is that it's definitely not a Tamigawa type "shake 'n bake".

It will probably take some old-school modelling skills to turn out a nice replica.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:59 AM
RampRat wrote:
- I believe the FM P-63 uses tooling from the Hi-Tech
- kit. I've not built it myself but the word on the
- street is that it's definitely not a Tamigawa type
- "shake 'n bake".
-
- It will probably take some old-school modelling
- skills to turn out a nice replica.
-
Tamiya is definately shake n bake. Hasegawa too. Am building a g-10 1/48 hasegawa and I built it in a day. Just gotta paint it and do final!

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:00 AM
the only kits i spend good money on is tamiya, hasegawa, Monogram, Academy, and Testors. The other kits that i have ive bought them because 1)they were really cheap 2) they offer a model that none of the other do. IMHO, all the other model companies other than these 5 have a so-so quality, and dont fit as well.

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Message Edited on 09/18/0310:18PM by cd_jakevas

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:01 AM
Is "shake-n-bake" good? Lol. I have not built a kit in 10 years.

Gib

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:04 AM
cd_jakevas wrote:
- the only kits i spend good money on is tamiya,
- hasegawa, Monogram, Academy, and Testors.

CD, you should try some of the italian and czeck companies like classic airframes and flying machine. they offer really interesting subjects: I just built a I-153. great detail but it did require some patience and experience due to poor fit. I am planning to order a kit from Italy of the Re 2005 centario. Cant wait!!!

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:16 AM
i have tried a number of other companies, but one thing that really gets me is a model with a bad fit. i dont mind fixing the fit, and sometimes its actually fun. But most of the time i rather be spending that time with airbrushing or weathering. Right now im actually working on a T-34/85 from a russian company. the fit is really poor, and the plastic quality can be quickly seen once i opened the box(not good). but i only paid like $10.00 for it. so i dont mind too much.

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Message Edited on 09/18/0310:18PM by cd_jakevas

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:48 AM
I never heard of that company but if its 30 it should be descent quality, use painters tape for masking when your airbrush too http://ubbxforums.ubi.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

I would like to see it when your done, I still have some 1:48 scale i need to do. b17g p38j still unopened and been working on a dora




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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:59 AM
part of the problem with the spray is the fact you do not have an airbrush .. the cans come on pretty heavy

the direction you spray from will an have an effect

is the green the plastic color or a camo coat you sprayed on ? you might try undercoating with white first so you need less light blue

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:16 AM
http://www.nasm.si.edu/nasm/aero/aircraft/images/bell_p-63.JPG



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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:23 AM
Gibbage1 wrote:

- Also, any other plastic model kit builders out there
- that can share some masking secrets? I masked and
- sprayed the nose cowel of the Do and the light blue
- has a thick like were the masking take was. How do
- you keep from getting that thick line? I had to
- spray on the blue thick in order to keep the dark
- green under it from showing through.

I would try a couple of light coats of flat white to cover the green, then several light coats of the blue. Keep each paint coat light. That should help overcome the thick tape edge. Also, have you considered using a removable 'Scotch' type of tape. Leaves a clean line.

Based on your awesome work for the community I'm sure you will do your usual exemplary work.

Hope this helps.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:29 AM
right on galway, but light grey is a better undercote unless its a really really light final colour then use flat white.

if the dark green was from the main aircraft colour not the plastic u should always paint lightest colour first so the blue and then mask to do the dark green so you donthave that issue. Also a base coat in a light colour also helps bring out/show any flaws before final paint


as for kits ive got an old revell-monogram 1/48 109 im about to start on (only cost me $8 AUD so why not), a review in FSM (fine scale modeler) says its a late g10, but from what ive seen comparing it to il-2fb the cockpit looks like a g-14 (very good likness) and the body looks like a k-4 (has large wing bulges and a bulge over the engine as opposed to the 2 lumps on either side of the g-14 engine), anyone know the facts

Konigwolf

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 07:09 AM
Apart from the companies cited by Jakevas you can trust in Italian company Italieri. Not as good as the Japanese, but good quality indeed, and cheaper.

Anyway, you must trust in strange companies if you want really strange planes. I've done planes even in vacuform because it was the only way to get them, and it's really difficult and it takes a lot of work to make them look good.

As for the mask line, it's mainly due to thick paint. Too much paint when using sprays, and the Tamiya acrilic colours tend to gross due to the nature of its volatile disolution. Gravity and pelicular adherence do the rest. Try the paint not to concentrate near the mask edge, and use sacrce cantities of paint, by painting not over dark surfaces or layers.

- Dux Corvan -



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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 08:00 AM
heres a pic of some of my earlier work, dont have a recent one, and its too late to take one now. heres the link

members.cox.net/jakevas/one.jpg

its a really big pic sorry.

<center>

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 08:17 AM
Gibbage1

Believe me, I know how tight money can be. But you really should consider buying an airbrush. You should be able to find a cheapie single action airbrush kit like a Badger 250 or 350 or something like that for not Much more than that kit you were eyeing. I got a badger 350 kit (airbrush, hose, adapter, paint cups & a small can of air) for $40.00 US. They may be harder to come by where you are but even a cheapie like that is infinitely better than spray cans.

About masking , You might try using two layers of masking tape & overlap the second layer so that it overhangs the first layer by about half a millimeter. And then spray many light coats at a slight angle away from the edge.

Also you might try masking with Blu-tac or Blue-Tack or whatever it's called. It's a Blue silly-Putty like stuff found in stationary stores used for sticking up party decorations. It's great, it sticks well doesn't leave a residue, never drys out & can be reused over & over.

Cheers......Smokin256

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 08:43 AM
Gibbage:

I recommend the Hyperscale site to anyone who enjoys plastic modeling. Lots of info and advice from a very, very knowledgable community. Some great folks over there.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 08:46 AM
yup hyperscale is a great place to get models. also advice for an airbrush to anyone, when i 1st started out bout 2 yrs ago, i got a cheap one from wal-mart, i didnt think it make that big of a difference. BIG MISTAKE. i was lucky enough to find a badger on sale at hobby lobby for $40 bucks.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 01:30 PM
Until a few years ago and the start of the Pc revolution I used to make kits like a looney.I picked up quite a few tips along the way.First I would definitely consider buying an airbrush-the Badger 350 single-action airbrush with a medium head is an excellent piece of kit and reasonably priced.

Your description of the line causing problems with masking sounds as if you tried to paint the stripe after the camouflage.Remember this isn't a paint program the physical properties of the paint come into play.Always paint the color scheme starting with the lightest colour,finishing the darkest colour.

Colours such as yellow and red are notorious for being translucent.

I would recommend first spraying the area of the stripe either white or very light grey to act as a base coat.Don't mask it into a line,spray it free hand.Don't go overboard you just want a light base coat for the stripe colour.

Spray the colour of the stripe,obviously once the base is totally dry,(This can take a day or two but its important as if its still soft the new colour could mix with it).

Make sure your paint is thinned correctly even if you are brush painting.

Once the stripe colour is totally dry mask the area of the stripe so that you can now spray/paint the camouflage and when dry you can remove the mask to reveal the sripe.

Do NOT spray/paint TOWARDS the mask edge as this will cause paint to build up at the edge and form the ridge you described.

A technique I used to get a soft edge to the colour demarcation on some schemes is to roll Blu-Tac (I think its called "silly putty" in the USA,we use it stick posters to walls) into long narrow "sausages" and gently press these onto the model into the shape of the scheme and mask off the area between you do not want painted.

Then spray straight down over the putty so you don't spray under it (Never paint towards the mask edge) and the resulting slight overspray gives a soft edge.

It pulls off the model easily but should only be applied to totally dry paint.If it leaves any putty behind use a clean piece of putty to "dab" gently away.

Check out the magazine "FineScale Modeller" for tips,reference and inspiration.I still use it for reference for schemes and colour chips for my skins.

Hope that helps.

Hope

Bo_Nidle

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RichardI
09-19-2003, 01:47 PM
Gib:-
Have a look here:
http://www.greatmodels.com/

They have just about every maker going. You might even get a choice of kits.

Rich /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-happy.gif

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 01:51 PM
Strangley enough ...

... yellow acts as a good base colour to red.

Very good if you want intense reds.

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 02:02 PM
my dad has a nifty trick, the spruce u get the parts from which u would bin, u can melt into wire, ive forgotten how cos its been ages, but its ace for ww1 planes etc
and a p40 too i guess /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-very-happy.gif

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 02:18 PM
Trumpetter is GREAT!
Anyone heared of it yet?
It's chinese..........
I saw a 1/24! scale Spit model with amazing detail,such as working flaps and real tiny springcoils for the landing gear!
Also contained photo-etched parts and 3! different resin pilots to choose from!!!

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:00 PM
i'd say trumpeter is BIG, not great LOL
they make huge models, true, but the quality is really poor

Tamiya and Accurate Miniatures are the top ones for me
followed by several other brands than sometimes come out with some good product.

About the painting tips Gib, be sure to proceed with at least three light hands of painting, and let it dry between each hand. Once done u gotta be careful about the products u use for masking. A really really economic and useful thing i always use are Post-It papers, they have the perfect low-adhesive glue that holds the paper in position and doesnt leave a sign!
If u use the wonderful metalizer colors by Testors be REALLY careful in handling the model, i use to wrap the wings with Teflon tape once painted, so i can work on it without risking to sign the metalic finish.
If u need extra tricks drop me a mail, i'll be happy to help u /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-happy.gif

SJ

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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:18 PM
About masking tips, I used only plain applied tape before. I stick on the first bit, twist in the desired shape while sticking it all to the model.

Now, I've found a better way. You just stick the masking tape roughly over the edge you want to paint and you cut out the pieces you want to paint with a really sharp knife. With any luck, there are some panel lines on the model to aid you.

I've 'invented' this method, while I was working on my 1:48 Monogram/Revell B-17, all the glass turrets and nose. /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-happy.gif It really was a huge work but, I was out of work and out of school so, I had alot of time and finished it in abouth six weeks /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-happy.gif I painted it silver, just with ordinary brush. For masking complicated camouflage patterns, you can use hobby clay.

Silver paint can be really tricky but, I applied the first coat, very carefully, with a brush (a really big and soft one), as perfect as the paint would let me. Then I let it dry for two weeks. After that, I applied some drops of the same paint on a clean and soft cotton cloth. I then carefully rubbed the whole aircraft like this. The result is a nice metallic shine. No extraordinary paints or, tools (airbrush) where used.

You can obtain slightly better results, using 'metalizer' paints. They contain small parts of metal and, when polishing with a cotton cloth, it can really make your model shine.


p.s. practice first on old models. Applying a layer of light-gray also helps with painting silver.


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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 03:43 PM
Regarding your masking problem, the best solution would be to strip it down and start again with lightest colors first, using either the silly putty method or paper masks lightly tacked away frm the edges with double sided tape, I've also had some success with wet newspaper strips cut with a sharp X-Acto knife (the modeller's best friend) before wetting. Less chance of tape residue.

As for the none name kit makers out there, I'm shocked and dismayed that no one has mentioned the Eduoard (sp?) company, which makes the ultimate P-39 in 1/48th scale, and a pretty nice YaK-3 as well. Also, the Accurate Miniatures' Il-2 and YaK 1 & 1b set a pretty high standard as well. Very nice, but much more demanding than the Tamigawa kits.

Also, a reminder before you decal: glosscoat. A glossy smooth surface gives the decals a chance to completely adhere to the surface of your model without bubbling (all those little white dots under the clear bits). Glosscoat, wait a couple of days,decal, wait a day, clean the residue off, glosscoat again, wait three days, weather, then flatcoat to taste, add landing gear, antenna, pitot tubes, et c, and display for friends and family to admire (avoid making engine sounds where you can be heard).

I agree that an airbrush is vastly superior to spraycans, but dry air supply can be a problem. Just make sure you shake well and test spray before turning the can on your "baby."


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XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 04:12 PM
General painting advice based on my experience building models over the last 21 years:

Light colors first, always. I've also found that it often helps to use different types of paints when painting the base colors and the details, such as doing the base in acrylics and the details (which often need brush work) in oil based paints.

That way if you really need to, you can usually use oil paint thinner without fear of destroying the base colors that you've worked so hard to lay down.

Spray cans are fine, although airbrushes are generally better. If you spray properly, there's no reason why you can't get an excellent result from a can.

When masking, remove the tape along the painted edge as soon as possible after painting. Pull the tape back over itself as flat (low an angle) as possible. Doing this before the paint has dried will go a long way to preventing a hard, raised line between the masked colors.

When using different brands and formulations of paints (such as lacquer vs oils), be sure to test for compatibility before applying them to your model. I remember the time I forgot to do this, and applied a bit of Krylon over some Testors/Model Master oil based enamels. The result was a rather nasty wrinkled and crackled effect, which ruined all the work I'd do up to that point.

It's worth noting, however, that Testors/Model Master oils over Krylon is not a problem. I suspect it has to do with the widely differing curing rates of the paints in question. Slow cure can go on top of fast cure, but fast can not go under slow.

Many thinner coats are always better than one thick coat. Read the instructions for the paint you are using, most will provide an acceptable window for applying additional coats, such as "Apply second coat within 15-30 minutes, or wait 48 hours before applying again". Follow these rules, otherwise the job probably won't turn out as well as it should.

Unless you absolutely have to, never use gloss paints for models (Cars or other high gloss items are an exception). Gloss paints are much thicker than flat (matte) paints and will both take longer to dry and fill much more detail.

Do not apply decals to flat (matte) finishes. Paint the model with flat paints, let it cure a day or two, and then mask any clear parts and spray the model with gloss clear to give it a glossy finish. Then apply the decals (after letting the clear coat cure). For best results use a decal setting solution (if allowed).

After 24-48 hours, wipe the model down gently with a damp cloth to remove any decal solution/adhesive residue and then spray with clear flat (or semi-gloss or gloss) to protect the decals and give the model its final correct shine.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:00 PM
p1ngu666 wrote:
- my dad has a nifty trick, the spruce u get the parts
- from which u would bin, u can melt into wire, ive
- forgotten how cos its been ages, but its ace for ww1
- planes etc
- and a p40 too i guess /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-very-happy.gif


It's simple, just hold the sprue over a heat source and gently pull the ends apart.



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Tae look at Supersonic Things wha's vanities harass ye.
When Tyranny, at Freedom's Door, in Armoured Might, wis knockin',
Ye made a Nation's 'Finest 'Our' - The Tyrant's Blade wis Broken.

Though streakin' Jets reflect the sun - The people don't forget ye. -
You're staunin noo on Hallowed Grun', - A Monument we've set ye.
You've banked and Spun, at Battle's height when greater numbers matched ye,
And cleared the skies o' Fascist Blight, while Freedom lovers watched ye.

Noo au' yur' Supersonic Brood kin' frolic, frisk and play
In skies where once in balance stood, The Scales o' Destiny.
-Yur' youthful Dash, and Fortitude, and sense o' Service - True.
-Has won the lastin' Gratitude 'o' mony for The Few'.

Ye seem tae ken' yon man that walks, on artificial Limb. -
-He strokes yur' side, and gently talks - YE SEEM TAE TALK TAE HIM
-Ye seem tae me, withoot a doot', attached tae yin' anither:-
-Ye maun' hae much to talk aboot. -Ah'll leave ye baith the gither.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:18 PM
If you are looking for Kingcobra, you can try www.mpm.cz, (http://www.mpm.cz,) from czech republic. As I know, they have online shop too! They are cheap, but they keep to a good shortrun standards.

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:25 PM
http://www.greatmodels.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=fon6008



Regards,
VFC*Crazyivan
http://www.rmutt.netfirms.com/ivan-reaper.gif

"No matter how good the violin may be, much depends on the violinist. I always felt respect for an enemy pilot whose plane I failed to down." Ivan Kozhedub

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:28 PM
My first model kit was a BF109E3 of Adolf Galland.I still remember that beautiful yellow nose Emil.After that I had a Spitfire MK1 , a A6M2 , a BAE Hawk , MIG27 Flogger M , Mig29A Fulcrum and my last model kit was a SU27UB Flanker which needless to say was my best.Iam searching for a JU88 model.Can anyone recommend a good one?Preferably it should be 1/48 scale

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.warbirdpictures.com/LCBW/Ju87-B2-45.jpg


JU87B2 of 8/St.G77 , Smolensk Sept 1941

Stukageschwader77 soon divebombing an airbase near you.---- Visit www.stg-77.net (http://www.stg-77.net) to join StG77 ----

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:39 PM
Heya Gib,

I got seriously into modeling when I was a kid, even had a top of the line airbrush (sold it when I was 17 or 18 /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-sad.gif )

Painting finescale models (1/32, 1/48 or 1/72 scale) without an airbrush can be a huge pain due to lack of control, brush marks and thick finishes that obscure and pool in panel lines.

I used to have a subscription to this mag http://www.finescale.com/ as a kid as well.

Man, I threw out all my modeling stuff including the models years ago. My last project was a 1/72 scale armour diorama depicting 2 M113s, 2 M60s and an M1a1. I called it "Fulda Gap - 1987" I even added anti-tank weapons damage on the M60s, and had a mech infantry commander yelling into a radio standing in a command M113, and the armoured troops inspected the damage. Not even any pics to show /i/smilies/16x16_smiley-sad.gif

Roy Baty
IV/JG51 M├┬Âlders

"Be happy in your work!"
- Col. Saito

<center>http://www.bloggerheads.com/mash_quiz/images/mash_henry_blake.jpg (http://www.bloggerheads.com/mash_quiz/)</center>

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 05:55 PM
I get a lot of good modeling info from Finescale.com They have several forums to go to to help with any questions you have http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/

Also, The MPM p-63 kits are very good. Squadron mail order is a good place to shop
http://www.squadron.com/Index.htm

XyZspineZyX
09-19-2003, 10:22 PM
Have you searched ebay?

They have had some very good P-39kits (sorry forgot the brand) that included brass detailing, and seemed to be a very good kit for the money?

Often individuals will sell unwanted in the box kits from collections that they are "thinning out".

Just a suggestion

wbuttler
cleric

"there is no spoon."