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Asas_Portuga1
02-19-2008, 10:57 AM
Hi all,

this one is for all the guys who help me in this forum. Like i promise in my post related the the subjet "MY FIRST AI KILL", u can visit the website below, and see the ntrks i saved. I 'm waiting for CRITICS, OPINIONS, TIPS, couse i know i'm making a lot of mistakes, and i'm hopimg u guys can help.

http://hosted.filefront.com/AsasPortuga1/


cy a

asas

Xiolablu3
02-19-2008, 12:48 PM
Nice job http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif))


A few things to help you...

Try to 'lead' (said 'leed' not 'led') the enemy plane more when you shoot. You need to be shooting in front of the enemy so that your bullets and him meet in the sky. This is called 'deflection shooting' by real pilots. You dont aim exactly at the enemy, you aim in front of him, because your bullets take a little time to reach him, so you need to guess the 'angle' needed for the bullets to hit him.

And dont forget you have WEP Boost in many planes like the Spitfire. This gives you a boost in speed for a while, but once you see 'engine overheat' dont carry this on for more than 2-3 minutes or your engine will be damaged. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

In the late models of BF109 they have MW50 WEP boost which you can only switch on under 100% throttle, but once it is on you can then throttle up to 110%. If you switch it on over 100% you will damage the engine.

Always try and be above your enemy. Try and dive down towards him, shoot and climb back up using your speed gained in the dive. This is called a boom and zoom atack, and its very hard for the enemy to shoot back.

Always try and stay as fast as possible.


I will try and post a couple of tracks to show you some things tomorrow if I have time http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Salute#!

Asas_Portuga1
02-19-2008, 03:11 PM
Originally posted by Xiolablu3:
Nice job http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif))


A few things to help you...

Try to 'lead' (said 'leed' not 'led') the enemy plane more when you shoot. You need to be shooting in front of the enemy so that your bullets and him meet in the sky. This is called 'deflection shooting' by real pilots. You dont aim exactly at the enemy, you aim in front of him, because your bullets take a little time to reach him, so you need to guess the 'angle' needed for the bullets to hit him.

And dont forget you have WEP Boost in many planes like the Spitfire. This gives you a boost in speed for a while, but once you see 'engine overheat' dont carry this on for more than 2-3 minutes or your engine will be damaged. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif !

hi Xiolablu3,

tanks for the tips. But, if u don´t mind i have 2 Q.

1-when u say "Lead", u mean that i shoundn't turn so much in a pursuit, and should try to persuit more straigth a head?

2- the boost turns were? key W? i try, and it doens't work.

cy a

asas

joejoemonkey
02-19-2008, 04:42 PM
i think this is what he meant about lead. here is a good guide written to help people understand the concept of deflection shooting. what you are talking about is lead, pure and lag pursuit.

gunnery guide (http://www.simhq.com/_air10/air_312a.html)

VW-IceFire
02-19-2008, 05:18 PM
Lead means placing your nose and consequently your guns ahead of the target. If the target is turning and you are turning then if you place the crosshair on the target you will miss because in the time it takes for the bullet to travel he will have moved.

So aim ahead of the target plane to hit. That'd be what Xiola is talking about. This is also known as "deflection shooting" and its a bit of science and a bit of an art when it comes to WWII air combat. Most people can do the basic calculations well...some people are truly gifted.

Not all 109s have MW50 boost and its best to read some guides about how to engage that properly without roasting the engine.

SeaFireLIV
02-19-2008, 05:21 PM
Listen to this man. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/agreepost.gif

Asas_Portuga1
02-20-2008, 08:44 AM
hi guys

thanks for all your tips and explanations. Most helpfull.

Xiolablu3, as allways, your replys rules http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/11.gif.

Of couse, guys, i mean no disrespect towards to the helpfull posts i've been get.

Joejoemonkey, that link u give me, Gunnery Guide, is http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif.

SeaFire and VWiceFire, u guys, fly a SpitFire, can u give me some tips about that plane???? specificly the SpitFire IX 25 Lb(?).

cheers

asas

thefruitbat
02-20-2008, 09:29 AM
It's just a personal opinion, but i don't think that the spit 25lb is ideal to start with, since it does too many things to well, and it will be easy to get into bad habits, which when you change planes will hit you hard.

my 2 cents,

fruitbat

Asas_Portuga1
02-20-2008, 10:58 AM
well, i don´t discuss that, but u gotta admit that the plane is really fun to fly whith, even to a noob, like my self.

So, what kind of plane do u sugest? La-7? BF-109 series? or maybe curtiss P40-E? i'm not an expert as u can imagine, i'm just guessing here. this r all planes that i allready tryed.

tell me what u think.

cheers asas

thefruitbat
02-20-2008, 11:49 AM
Oh, i don't disagree with you, it is a very fun plane to fly, thers no question about that.

When i first started the La7 was the uber plane (before the spit25 was released), and that was the one i learnt to fly, doing much the same as what you are doing, when i first started.

But because these planes are so good, they don't encourage you to learn things like energy management as well as other planes, because you don't need to. Unfortunatly, this is not the case for 95% of the planes.

I personally would recommend earlier war planes for several reasons. For a start seperation, both vertical and horrizontal is much closer earlier in the war, due to lower speeds, and this helps with things like SA. Lower speeds also gives you more time to think. As you learn the lessons, then you can apply them with faster better planes.

I would personally recommend say, the spit mkvb, or bf109f4, flown against other 1941 or earlier planes, and then slowly move up through the years untill you get to the late war hotrods.

Again though, this is just my opinion, and others will differ.

cheers fruitbat

SeaFireLIV
02-20-2008, 12:04 PM
Yes, the Spitfire Vb is a great plane to fly. One of my favourites and a good one to start on. It`s not a `super` plane, but like thefruitbat says, it`s good to start on and get the basics.

Xiolablu3
02-20-2008, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by thefruitbat:
Oh, i don't disagree with you, it is a very fun plane to fly, thers no question about that.

When i first started the La7 was the uber plane (before the spit25 was released), and that was the one i learnt to fly, doing much the same as what you are doing, when i first started.

But because these planes are so good, they don't encourage you to learn things like energy management as well as other planes, because you don't need to. Unfortunatly, this is not the case for 95% of the planes.

I personally would recommend earlier war planes for several reasons. For a start seperation, both vertical and horrizontal is much closer earlier in the war, due to lower speeds, and this helps with things like SA. Lower speeds also gives you more time to think. As you learn the lessons, then you can apply them with faster better planes.

I would personally recommend say, the spit mkvb, or bf109f4, flown against other 1941 or earlier planes, and then slowly move up through the years untill you get to the late war hotrods.

Again though, this is just my opinion, and others will differ.

cheers fruitbat

I do understand your point, fruitbat, but I think while Asas_Port is learning to shoot then the Spitfire 25lbs is an OK choice.

If you watch his tracks then you will see he needs to learn lead/deflection shooting before anything else, and the Spitfire 25lbs is a good strong plane to start with for a very new pilot.

Watch his first track and you will see what I mean. He needs to learn shooting the most I think, therefore plane performanmce isnt really important at this time, he just needs a plane which will get him on the 6 of his enemy so he can practice shooting, and the Spit 25 is fine for that. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif.

thefruitbat
02-20-2008, 03:32 PM
I hear what your saying, i've watched some of his tracks now, and yes i can see deflection shooting needs to be worked on.

I've just done a track just for you Asas_port, i tried to pull a few large deflection shots for you, but my shooting could of been a bit better, as i've had a couple of beers http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-mad.gif

Theres a couple of nice deflection shots in there, and i suggest you watch it in the cockpit, without manual view, so you can see exactly what i was seeing. It might help to slow the replay down a bit.

Anyway, the track is me in a bf109f4 v lagg3's, and you can find it here:

http://hosted.filefront.com/thefruitbat/

To xiolablu3

While i agree with you about that he needs a plane in which it is easy to get behind, do you not think that sometimes its harder to get behind planes if your plane is overly fast compared to your oposition? The track i watched he was in a spitmk9e v 109e4/7, and it can be very easy to overshoot.

Do you think he might be better off going 1 on 1 or 1 v 2 in say a bf109f4 v a hurri, you still have the performance to get behind your target, but not overly so,and because the closing speeds will be lower, the shooting angle easier to work out?

cheers fruitbat

Asas_Portuga1
02-20-2008, 04:33 PM
[QUOTE
While i agree with you about that he needs a plane in which it is easy to get behind, do you not think that sometimes its harder to get behind planes if your plane is overly fast compared to your oposition? The track i watched he was in a spitmk9e v 109e4/7, and it can be very easy to overshoot.[/QUOTE]


Hi guys,

i agree whith Xiolablu3 when he says " plane performanmce isnt really important at this time, he just needs a plane which will get him on the 6 of his enemy so he can practice shooting" cause, althouth my flying performence isn+t the best, i'm practice ACM a lot, and i feel that i'm geting better. but as far as the shooting concerne, i agree whith Fruitbat, " his tracks now, and yes i can see deflection shooting needs to be worked on.", i have serius probs whith my gunnery. i set my convergence to 300, but i don´t have the skill to take the advantage of that.


well, SEaFire, i going to folow yopur sugestion, and try the Spit VB, and see how it goes.

thanks to u all http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

i'm gonna take a pic on that track of fruiBat, and see if i learn something http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/35.gif

cheers

asas

stugumby
02-20-2008, 05:03 PM
Have you tried anything in a Yak??, no really bad habits but no really impressive capabilities either, but nimble not agile, etc, nice view, wide track landing gear, hard to stall, has 2 or 3 heavy mg or cannon combo and can take a few hits. Just stay away from yak9b as its a hybrid bomber and has a poor directional control issue due to center of gravity. im a yak fan but im usually dead by the time i get into position for a extened chase...

M_Gunz
02-20-2008, 06:23 PM
Just from watching 3 passes of you in Spit-25 vs FW I can give you some tips not given yet.

Spit IX's are all high torque to weight planes. The power on the prop twists the flight of
the plane to some degree, more than many.

On your instrument panel about halfway down and just right of center you will find the VSI
gage - Vertical Speed Indicator with zero on the left at 9 o'clock position for level flight.
Just below that is a dual gage with two needles, the top is SLIP and the bottom is TURN.

When you have SLIP, your plane is not pointing in the direction it is traveling. The nose will
be pointing away from the direction of travel opposite the direction the slip needle (in Spits,
ball in most others) is. When you have slip, you are supposed to use rudder in the direction
the needle or ball is, or let up using rudder opposite that direction, you want the plane's
nose corrected IN the direction the indicator is off-center. The pilot term is "step on the
ball" because most planes have a ball in a curved tube and rudder is feet controlled.

Shooting with slip puts a sideways motion on your shots. They will not go where the gunsight
points. If you are very close then you will hit, just not precisely the spot you aimed. Over
more than 100m you can easily miss, or if your shots would have missed then -maybe- you will
luck out and hit by small chance.

Flying with slip adds drag, you will not go as fast or even speed up as fast as you could.

Flying slow with slip... if you stall then you will go into a spin where if you have no slip
then you will drop straight as long as you can keep straight. But even a little slip will turn
a stall into a spin and here is measure of how little many gamers know of slip -- many do not
know the difference between stall and spin and will call a spin "stall" because that is what
happens to them, they don't know why.

In a turn your plane is pulling G's and your stall speed increases by square root of the G's
times 1G stall speed. If stall is 140kph then in a 4G turn the stall is 280kph, if you have
slip in this turn and slow to 280kph then boom you will go into a spin with the force of a 4G
turn behind it, the term is "accelerated spin" because turn is acceleration but you will feel
that accelerated describes how fast and hard the spin hits. Square root of 6 is just under
2.5 so don't think that speed alone will keep you from spin unless it is high speed indeed.

You also let your speed drop way too far for being in combat area. If there were other enemy
then several times in minutes there you would have been a sitting duck. In late war planes or
even mid-war do not let your speed drop below 320kph unless you are very sure you are clear and
even then it is a bad idea in general -- except at extreme altitude, all speeds are lower there
except stall IAS is the same, your top speed lowers and the margin above stall is smaller.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Best thing you can do is practice just FLYING until you have rudder use and speed and the rest
down to instinct. When you are shooting and trying to watch target you do not have time to
watch instruments and learn flying consistently coordinated. Instead, practice flying with the
view down enough to see the instruments especially your Slip but also VSI, IAS (Indicated Air
Speed) and Altitude. In time you will only need to see them once in a while but in the start
you need to learn to control the plane properly and do so with no feel of motion that really
you would have. That makes this both a real pilot skill and a simulation skill at the same time
you need to synthesize a feel for through observation and expectation. A game skill that only
the better players take time to develop, by the way.

Try practicing gunnery on a building or clump of trees or road intersection. You swoop, line
up, shoot and pull out and up. Then wing over and go back. When you can hit that always and
not crash, then go for the moving targets. Each step though, you need to master the one before
or you will carry bad habits and reinforce those on yourself.

It's your choice.

Here is full piloting type course if you want to get serious or find answers in flying. (http://www.av8n.com/how/)

OTOH you can screw around and have fun while thinking something is wrong with the game, LOL!
The flying simulation is not perfect but it is better than most players will know.

M_Gunz
02-20-2008, 06:37 PM
BTW, tamer planes have less trouble with slip. The Spitfire IX's are terrible compared to
most. Making it worse is where the Slip gage is, you have to move the view down unless zoomed
all the way out and then the needle is not so clear. Most have "the ball" and it is high
enough that at mid-zoom it is still on-screen and it is big enough to see easily in zoomed-out
view. The P-51 gunsights even have a small "ball" right under the gunsight which makes getting
your shots true a more sure thing.

It is really better to learn on the early war planes with early war planes as targets.

When it comes time to shoot again, set up bombers as they are bigger to hit easier. Give them
no ammo and they will not shoot back -- the point is to learn where your shots are going and
not to measure your..self.

Stick to one plane for a good while. Different guns bullets travel at different speeds. You
cannot get used to the moments shots take to cover some distance when you change guns. Learn
well one at a time. The delay between when you shoot and when the shots hit or go by your
target at some range will become like musical notes -- half beat, full beat, quarter beat
depending on range. When you know the timing and see the plane move across your view then
you will also know how far ahead to aim. Your first burst will be close and you can then
easily correct and bring fire onto the target.

I hope that helps.

Asas_Portuga1
02-21-2008, 08:52 AM
Hi all,

Thanks for the magnificent posts u all sent. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif. In this post, I'll try to aboard all the issues that u guys refer as my faults or probs.

For start, the aircraft. As I said before, I tried, several planes, mostly, without criteria, I choose them cause I like, new or thought they here easy to fly. As Fruitbat, and M_Gunz, wisely pointed that choice should be based on" earlier war planes. For a start separation, both vertical and horizontal is much closer earlier in the war, due to lower speeds, and this helps with things like SA. Lower speeds also gives you time to think."
I agree totally with this point, and know I began to understand the concept, but of coarse it takes an experience pilot to tell that to a noob. Although, I agree with u guys, I tend to be in agreement with Xiolablu3, when he says, that my main prob. Is defecting shooting.I Know i still have a long way to go, but In fact, the reason, I pick Spit 25, was that the plane performance, was very strong and stable (I guess). But, as far as bad habits concern, U ALL R RIGTH, http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-sad.gif, the spit 25, is not a good plane, cause it does not allow me to comprehend the fundamentals of flying an WWII aircraft, like M_Gunz said.

Basically, I have lots of work to do. I have to practice the defecting shooting, like u all told me too, practice the gunnery on static building (good tip M_Gunz), practice gunnery on bombers. Well, many hours of FUN ..... THANKS GUYS

Just one more thing..... http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/clap.gif http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/clap.gif http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/clap.gif to u all


ASAS


P.S - 1800 hours - I've just Dl and printed from M4T, the 1943 RAF manual, "Bag the Hun!" to do some homework. hope this help me in any way. I'm confident.

asas

M_Gunz
02-21-2008, 12:56 PM
What is your rudder control? Pedals? Twisty stick? Keys?

You can shoot straight unless you fly straight! Rudder into those turns but watch The Ball!

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 02:59 AM
M_Gunz,


I'm glad i asked. Rudder is bit of strugle of mine. I tryed twist (i have the AV8R), keys, mouse, but i can´t "sime" (?) to use it correctly. Trim is my other prob. So, as you can see on my NTKS.

I'm going to buy( maybe today or this next 2/3 days) a CH Pro USB Rudder peddals).

So, i'll need some instrutions, ok?

cy a

CHEERS

ASAS

Xiolablu3
02-22-2008, 03:29 AM
'seem' http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 03:53 AM
ok. Thanks a lot.
http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 04:00 AM
Xiolablu,

can u tell me, how do u guys, put a picture or signature, like u have, or SeaFire?


ASAS

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 08:45 AM
hey, Xiolablu,

yesterday, i've dl Snippers Corner to my PC, and but idon´t know how to "play " with it. I mean. i did new how to put the parameters, but

how do i get the tool to do is job????? when i move my joy, it doens't hapen any thing, it doesn't shoot, move, nothing.... http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif.

should i dl the SC to a specific file?

realy need some help here. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif

Thanks

asas

M_Gunz
02-22-2008, 10:47 AM
Originally posted by Asas_Portuga1:
M_Gunz,


I'm glad i asked. Rudder is bit of strugle of mine. I tryed twist (i have the AV8R), keys, mouse, but i can´t "sime" (?) to use it correctly. Trim is my other prob. So, as you can see on my NTKS.

I'm going to buy( maybe today or this next 2/3 days) a CH Pro USB Rudder peddals).

So, i'll need some instrutions, ok?

cy a

CHEERS

ASAS

TRIM:

If you are flying steady and have to hold your stick off center, say back or forward, then use
trim to counter that. When you change speed -- then you change trim if you are not going to
change very soon. If I am going into a dogfight, I hit trim neutral key because so many changes
quickly -- aces actually did change trim in some fights, that is written by some who did.

Before I take off, I set trim neutral then maybe 12 key taps nose up trim and a bunch for the
rudder (different planes, different direction but you take off in the plane without then you
will know which way next time) and then do my takeoff. As the plane speeds up I find myself
moving the stick more and more forward so I trim nose down click-click-click and wait (trim
takes time to move after you tap key, know it is so, you can test this yourself) and then
maybe more -- big deal is to be able to keep your joystick near center by using trim.

IL-2 trim and joystick is made so you feel pressure on the stick as you would in real.
NOT like real is position of joystick. In real plane the position of the stick makes the
position of the control surface. In real plane the trim can move the stick. In game it is
not so unless maybe force feedback stick. Game is set so you feel the pressure as would be
in real only not same amount, what game stick exerts up to 20 kilos against your hand? None!

--- On your game joystick the zero pressure position is center. When your joystick is center
and no force on your hand then that is same as real stick wherever it would be if not held.
In real plane that position of the real stick is controlled by trim and force of air on the
surfaces, aileron, elevator, etc.
You only need to be aware what happens, not to care much just where center is. In steady
flight of level, climb, dive, turn you just try and trim to where you are not holding your
joystick far from center and you will be fine and fly quicker than those who do not, be sure.
Near center of your joystick you also have best control.

You know this means practice just flying sometimes. You learn best by doing. When you use a
different plane then it is time to first "get familiar" and you will get better results.

RUDDER:

Start by watching your plane sitting on the ground while you twist the stick, look for the
rudder on the plane to move.

Fly a plane with "The Ball" like 109 or P-40. Bank for a turn without using rudder and watch
the ball. You turn right without rudder, ball goes right (usually, can be different depending
on maneuver combination) -- watch then rudder into the direction the ball is away from center
(twist the stick same direction) and watch the ball move. You want it to stay in middle, use
the ball to tell you what you are doing. Turn right usually means rudder right but how much
you need to practice until you don't need to watch, but sometimes check anyway.

Once you get it reacting while you know how things work, it will be clear and easy. It is
simple once you know to even look which so many players do not.

Here is small chapter from "See How It Flies" on rudder use:

11.4 Anticipate Correct Rudder Usage

As discussed in chapter 8, there are four or five things that can cause the airplane to yaw. Your job is to use the rudders to eliminate the unwanted yaw, so that the airplane is always pointing the way it is going.

The objective is to anticipate how much rudder is required in various circumstances, so you aren't constantly correcting for errors.

The hardest thing to deal with is yaw-wise inertia. The rule is: rolling to the left requires left rudder; rolling to the right requires right rudder. The amount of rudder pressure should be proportional to the rate of roll. Adverse yaw complicates the situation, and requires rudder deflection whenever the roll rate does not match the aileron deflection. To a fair approximation the two effects can be covered by the rule: "rudder deflection proportional to aileron deflection".

Note that (unlike yaw-wise inertia) adverse yaw occurs even if you aren't turning. Suppose that a wind gust causes the left wing to drop. You immediately use right aileron to raise the wing. Right rudder is required. Don't get the idea that rudder is only required when you intend to turn.

Another tricky case arises when you make your first left turn after takeoff. You are holding a large amount of right rudder pressure because of the helical propwash, and you need to apply left aileron. Rather than using actual left rudder pressure, it probably suffices to use a reduction in right rudder pressure. This is harder to learn than it sounds. You may find it more convenient to maintain whatever right-rudder pressure is required to compensate for the helical propwash, and to make left turns by applying countervailing force on the left rudder pedal.

If you have a rudder trim control, by all means use it to compensate for the helical propwash effect.

That is for real planes, it holds true in IL-2.

You don't need to learn everything perfect but the things you don't know at all about will be
the ones causing problems you won't understand.

Do I need to say about practice? I think not.

Things to look up and practice to be a better fighter: BCM's and then ACM's.
BCM is Basic Combat Maneuver and ACM is Advanced Combat Maneuver.

Sometimes to barrel roll will put you back on target where otherwise you have the wide turn
and try to find him again. Practice with maneuvers and you won't have to think, just do.

This is much and will do for now I hope. Oh hell, I hope you do this much!

Good Luck, some day maybe you will pilot for real.

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 11:55 AM
Thanks Gunz,

i'll concentrate in, among other things, on practice BCM.

i'll keep u post it.



cheers

asas

Xiolablu3
02-22-2008, 01:51 PM
Originally posted by Asas_Portuga1:
hey, Xiolablu,

yesterday, i've dl Snippers Corner to my PC, and but idon´t know how to "play " with it. I mean. i did new how to put the parameters, but

how do i get the tool to do is job????? when i move my joy, it doens't hapen any thing, it doesn't shoot, move, nothing.... http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif.

should i dl the SC to a specific file?

realy need some help here. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif

Thanks

asas

Sorry Asas, I dont know this 'snippers corner', maybe someone else can help?

To put a picture in your Sig, first make the picture the correct size (there is a limit you must use, I think mine is right on the the limit.

Then go to 'Go>Personal ZOne>My Profile' in the top left of this screen.

Then on the right of the screen pic 'View/Edit Complete Profile'

Then find the 'signature' box.

Now you need to paste the link to the picture in this bit, and put <pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">*link*</pre> . Mine for example is :-

<pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9509/me1103xt3.jpg</pre>


You can use the imageshack site to host free pictures if you need somewhere to upload your picture to :-

http://imageshack.us/

Maybe someone else knows where there is a better tutorial for sigs?

Asas_Portuga1
02-22-2008, 04:18 PM
thanks.


great help.

cheers


asas

Xiolablu3
02-23-2008, 05:15 PM
Asas, if you want to put that flag in your sig, the add the 'img' parts before and after the link

<pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">*link here*</pre>

Actually, just copy and paste this into your signature :-

<pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:RFPKxP1c9f-HNM:http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8251/band3ai1</pre>

The text above will post your flag like this :-

http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:RFPKxP1c9f-HNM:http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8251/band3ai1

Asas_Portuga1
02-24-2008, 02:29 PM
Ok. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

thanks, and sorry, and a bit of a http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/35.gif as far as this stuff concerne.

i don't wont to be annoying, but can u do the same to this URL? or if u don´t have the time, can u explain me, what is [IMG] and were do i gete it to paste.

thanks.

asas

Xiolablu3
02-24-2008, 03:24 PM
The link you wrote above is correct, but you missed out the '/' on the second [/img]


Think of the '/' as meaning 'end'

<pre class="ip-ubbcode-code-pre">link here</pre>

think of it like this :-

[image link starts]*link here*[end image link]


img is like 'image' which means 'picture'

I dont mind helping you at all. You can PM me with any questions if you like.

M_Gunz
02-24-2008, 04:53 PM
Is it possible that an HTML site could help at lest with examples for ASAS_Portuga1?

Something like here? (http://www.htmlprimer.com/)

Asas_Portuga1
02-25-2008, 02:05 AM
ok. thanks for the help. i'll try that .

M_Gunz: http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif to u too.

asas

Asas_Portuga1
02-25-2008, 09:43 AM
this is just a test to see the sig

asas

Xiolablu3
02-25-2008, 10:02 AM
You need to make the sig smaller in height or it will get stopped.

Add the pictures togther longways instead in some art program, and make them shaped like mine instead of 3 tall, go 3 wide.

Asas_Portuga1
02-25-2008, 10:30 AM
Originally posted by Xiolablu3:
You need to make the sig smaller in height or it will get stopped.

Ok. thanks. this is giving me way to much work. I 'm gonna stick to one IMG only http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif.

But, thanks anyway, Xiolablu3, for your patience.

cy a

asas

Asas_Portuga1
03-03-2008, 07:56 AM
Hi all,

As u guys know i'm doing my homework, triyng to folow your tips and guide lines.

i have 3 topics:

1 - Despite, having the RealVideos, send by Guizmo, http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif, there r some manouvers causing me some difilculties. I understand the concept of Chandelle, break turn and wingover , but i have probs execute them. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_frown.gif I don´t know if i'm doing a big deal of this 3 BCM, but i think they r importante to the next stage: combat.

Can someone make a traks as exemple ????

2- My setup for Yak-1b is yaw 100 all; and default to pitch and roll. Do u think it´s OK?

3- How do u guys have your Cameras setup? i'm asking cause i saw some traks, and there's some views that i like , but i don´t know how to chose.

I'm sorry for so many questions, hope u guys don´t get bored. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/touche.gif

Thanks in advance

ASAS

GIAP.Shura
03-03-2008, 10:30 AM
Hi Asas,

Here is a quick description of the three maneuvres you are talking about. From these descriptions can you explain the difficulty you are having in their execution?

The Chandelle is basically a climbing co-ordinated turn. By "co-ordinated" I mean that you are using ailerons, elevators and rudder in different amounts to perform the turn and keeping the slip ball central throughout the turn. You are trying to maintain smooth, controlled flight with no lost energy due to yaw.

I think the Wingover as shown in the Regia Aeronautica video is incorrect. This seems to be much more like a hammerhead, whereas the Wingover is much less aggressive. It is more like a 180 degree reversal with a climb being used to reduce your speed closer to your corner velocity which maintains your energy by converting the speed to altitude. The apex of the climb occurs when you are halfway through the turn. You descend in the second half of the turn, changing the altitude back into your speed. It should be a co-ordinated turn maneuvre rather than a full rudder maneuvre as described by Regia Aeronautica.

The Break Turn is simply the sharpest turn you can make at that point without stalling, blacking out or ripping off your wings. These are all bad things http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-very-happy.gif . This turn will bleed excessive amounts of speed and energy but if you are being bounced by an opponent with a high closure rate this will at the very least give him a harder shot to make. His higher speed will generally mean than his turning circle will not be as tight as yours at your lower speed, so if you are breaking hard it is unlikely that he will be able to make his anticipated shot and he won't be able to follow you without bleeding off his energy advantage. An effective break turn is largely about timing: break too early and you give him time to readjust his aim or you may be forced into a head to head, break too late and you give him an easy shot on your six.

Your input settings will depend more on the type of stick that you are using than on the plane you fly and there is also a large personal preference there as well. Experimentation is the main thing here unfortunately.

Camera options by default are the function keys with combinations of SHIFT and CTRL.

Asas_Portuga1
03-03-2008, 10:51 AM
hI GIAP,

thanks.

As far as the camaras concerne, should i go the game SETUP and make those combinations or i just press SHIFT and CTRL to chose ??

cheers

asas

thefruitbat
03-03-2008, 12:51 PM
If you go into the controls section you will see the selection of views that the game allows, if you scroll down a bit. Of the top of my head, besides the normal and gunsight view, external friend, external enemey, chase view both f/e, external padlock air, external padlock ground.

all the views are listed in the controls section of the game, and you can set the keys to your hearts content, or just use the defaults.


cheers fruitbat

Asas_Portuga1
03-04-2008, 03:51 AM
Originally posted by GIAP.Shura:
Hi Asas,

Here is a quick description of the three maneuvres you are talking about. From these descriptions can you explain the difficulty you are having in their execution?


Hi all,

Thanks the replies u sent. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

Giap,

Yesterday I did not had time to reply, as I wanted. Well, by, the description of the Chandelle, Break Turn and Wingover, my main problem is to keep the ball in the center on the Chandelle, the energy/climb/turn on the Wingover, and the Break, as simply as may seem to u, for me mostly cause of energy/turn uncontrol , it gives me a head hake. One of the reasons I asked about the views, was because I cannot se all the way through the maneuver. Other thing u talked about is energy. I do not know how to control very well my plane energy.

Fruitbat, thanks for the tips on the FOV. I will check it out.

Cheers.

ASAS

Asas_Portuga1
03-04-2008, 09:57 AM
Hi,

take a pic on this link:

http://atcportugal.com/index.php?option=com_zoom&Itemid...27&PageNo=2&offset=0 (http://atcportugal.com/index.php?option=com_zoom&Itemid=99999999&catid=27&PageNo=2&offset=0)

cy a

asas

GIAP.Shura
03-04-2008, 10:00 AM
I did some ntrks of these maneuvres but reviewing them I saw that the slipball was responding incorrectly in the ntrk.

In the Yak-1b once I was trimmed for level flight I barely needed to use the rudder through the maneuvres. Furthermore for the break turn, you don't need to worry about being co-ordinated. You are just trying to turn you aircraft as radically as possible, use of the rudder is more to rescue you from a stall should you push it too far.

If you still want the ntrks I can post them up but as I said the slipball is totally incorrect in its readings during the turn.

Asas_Portuga1
03-04-2008, 10:16 AM
Hi, GIAP,

If u think, despite the slipball bad response, that the ntrks u made maybe help visualize better those maneuvres, i do want them.

if not, thanks anyway. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

Did u saw the link i post few minutes ago? It lot of nice PICs.

Cy a
ASAS

Asas_Portuga1
03-06-2008, 02:15 PM
Originally posted by GIAP.Shura:
I did some ntrks of these maneuvres but reviewing them I saw that the slipball was responding incorrectly in the ntrk.


Hi, SHURA,

hi made a few traks to show u guys my "pratice" ( I bit poor i believe) on manouvers. of course, 2 end in crash, but no mater, it's part of the lerning process, i guess.

Tell me what u think it can be improved. I allready saw them several times, but i can wacth the mistakes and not realize i made them.

http://hosted.filefront.com/AsasPortuga1/

thanks again

cheers

asas

GIAP.Shura
03-06-2008, 03:46 PM
Ok, I'll try to check them out.