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View Full Version : Custom Switch Panel Using Leo's Controller BU0836



VFS-214_Hawk
04-19-2007, 06:14 PM
Well I am well under way building my own panel for IL2. I am using Leo's Controller http://www.lbodnar.dsl.pipex.com/joystick/. I have had this idea for about a year but had no idea how to build it until I saw Pedster reply to this post http://forums.ubi.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/26310365/m/9831081034/p/2

So far here is what I have. I wanted to duplicate the below audio panel removed from a Convair 440 or Martin 404. I removed the Plexiglas cover and made a duplicate plus added more switches. I am using Leo's 6x6 board which will allow 32 switches. I will be using 25. You can see 24 switches on my panel but one switch, the flaps, uses two available commands. I will be using diodes on all switches that will remain "pressed" such as gear, lights, auto pilot chocks, emergency brake, etc. When I finish it I will post more pics plus my wiring diagram if anyone wants to build one. I will have right at $100 in it when finished. I built the box from aircraft grade aluminum and plexiglas from our trash pile! Leo's board is abou $44 including shipping and all the switches run from $1 to $1.50 each depending what you desire.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/switchbox1-1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/leo3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/leo1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/leo2.jpg

p-11.cAce
04-19-2007, 06:38 PM
Nice work http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

Waldo.Pepper
04-19-2007, 09:03 PM
Knew you could do it.

Esel1964
04-19-2007, 11:08 PM
Looks like it's going to be sweet,looking forward to future posts.I've been 'eying' that BU control module for awhile. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

VFS-214_Hawk
04-20-2007, 08:13 PM
Need a little help here. I have confused myself. Where do the diodes go?

Here?

****edited***
Yes, but diodes need to be turned around.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/diodes.jpg

heywooood
04-20-2007, 08:21 PM
uh oh... http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/784.gif

VFS-214_Hawk
04-20-2007, 08:51 PM
I figured...lol

bolox00
04-20-2007, 10:51 PM
ok, the centre tap on the switches is the '+ signal' . this connects directly to the relevant column. the taps top and bottom are the 'returns' and have the diode attatched before connecting to the relevant row. so basically you're conecting the diode to the wrong tap.

the centre tap acts for both the up and down on each switch unit, therefore you can only connect 3 double toggle switches together on centre tap to each column, or 6 push buttons- or combinations there of, ie 2 double toggle and 2 push buttons.
hope that's not too confusing?

test this using 1 switch only via game controllers in control panel. if it doesm't work try reversing diode- looks like you've got that orientation right in your diag- just attatched to the wrong tap.

good luck, you're nearly there.
now when are you adding pots http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/53.gif

Widowmaker214
04-20-2007, 11:04 PM
hey Hawk.. was just cecking out that controller.. thats pretty perfect for a WWII pit.. since theres not as many buttons needed as in per say a Viper pit (Id go with an epic in that case)

But when I was checking out the controller.. It didn't seem to mention any programming software.

Do you have to go in the game and press the specific button to associate it to a function in the controls section?

bolox00
04-21-2007, 02:08 AM
with less than 32 buttons on an input device it is possible to assign directly in game with il2. probably the easiest way

there are keyboard emulators available such as
http://www.electracode.com/4/joy2key/JoyToKey%20English%20Version.htm
can be useful particularly if you want/need repeats/multiple keypresses http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-wink.gif

even more capable emulators are usually part of the package with more expensive controllers, such as the beta innovations range.

pity ch dropped the oem board only controller- using their software would have been interesting http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-surprised.gif http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

VFS-214_Hawk
04-21-2007, 05:43 AM
Leo straightened me out. This is correct, however, if you use the same command for both throws(up and down) of the switch, wire both to the same column.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/diodes3.jpg

bolox00
04-21-2007, 06:09 AM
good http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
can i suggest you post a pic or 2 in this thread when done
http://forums.ubi.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/49310655/m/3821084134
with a link to this one. helps others to find stuff in the future?

good luck and more immersive flying

VFS-214_Hawk
04-21-2007, 01:40 PM
Ok, I got it working. I need to work out a few bugs, one bad switch but I like it http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/clap.gif

I will post pics of my awful crude wiring job when I am finished!

VFS-214_Hawk
04-22-2007, 08:48 AM
Again with the exception of connecting a few switches (I ran out of diodes) and applying the labels, the panel is complete and works.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0876.jpg

Sokol__1
04-22-2007, 10:19 AM
But when I was checking out the controller.. It didn't seem to mention any programming software.

Theres a nice program called SVMapper - made to program Mjoy8/16 USB board (similar to BU0836),
is more flexible than JoyToKey.
Easy to use Windows interface:

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/3036/svmapperqg3.jpg
Alow things like:

PTT (push to talk) in TeamSpeak

Automation in F4F/i16 landig Gear - whit Repeat 51 and Delay,ms 470 the gear UP/Down simultaneously with the animation of the crank in the cockpit. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif

Raise/Up Gear whit one toggle switch - mapped key on press: G mapped key on released: G

FOV Zoom: Repeat 12 Delay,ms 25

Accepts modifiers whit keys: LAlt, LCtrl, LShift, LWin, RAlt, RCtrl, RShift, RWin.

SVMapper: http://download.yousendit.com/8DD2C8DA39A2A511

Sokol1

Chef-Scott
04-22-2007, 12:02 PM
Leo's controller and no sliders? What's up with that? http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/halo.gif

VFS-214_Hawk
04-22-2007, 07:28 PM
Soko, I am looking into that as wee speek...reee ah, I mean as I type this..lol

Chef-scott, I haven't got that far yet http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-wink.gif

Below is a pic of the CH with rudder trim.(not yet wired)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0878.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0877.jpg

ibeagle
04-22-2007, 11:57 PM
Can LED's be hooked up with switches? I'm thinking red/green LED's for up/down on the landing gear. A mate of mine is about to build a P-38 qaudrant for the next sim.

mmitch10
04-23-2007, 01:38 AM
I've just finished my own box using Leo's controller, used 15 swtiches, three rotary pots for trim and 4 linear slider pots hooked up to levers for throttle, prop pitch etc.

Does anyone know of any software that allows me to split a signal from a pot into bands of, say 10% each so that I can assign a lever to fuel mixture? I've searched google with no success, so maybe it just isn't out there, but I think some Saitek sticks allow you to do this.

bolox00
04-23-2007, 01:44 AM
yes it is possible, providing you use double pole switches and keep the led circuit separate from the controller circuit. padser did this in this thread
http://forums.ubi.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/26310365/m/9831081034

personally i'd have used a separate 5v supply for the leds, not draw power from unused axes from the controller- but apparently it works- but hey if it works....

hawk, at simhq you say you are getting erratic switching on some circuits- is his restricted to switches/ buttons that are connected to a row that has a locking toggle? and no diode on one/any of them?. sounds like diodes required on the rest of switches to me,( or it could be 'dodgy soldering' or a short on the tails of the diodes?- try pvc tape to insulate?)
if all switches work ok with every other switch 'centred' diodes would be indicated.

sokol's utility is better than joytokey- couldn't find a link- the press/release function might help but i'd make sure windows is seeing everything correctly before adding anything else which could 'confuse' matters

Sokol__1
04-23-2007, 10:58 AM
Does anyone know of any software that allows me to split a signal from a pot into bands of, say 10% each so that I can assign a lever to fuel mixture?

mmitch10

I think that AUTOHOTKEY alow this.
www.autohotkey.com (http://www.autohotkey.com)

Look this samples posted in SimHQ, the mini stick in CH PRO Throttle is two axis (pots).
http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&...6&page=1#Post2136286 (http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2136286&page=1#Post2136286)


Actually, I just created a mapping for the mini-stick on my CH pro throttle last night.

I had always wanted to use the mini-stick for moving the target designator for mavericks in the A-10 in Lockon. But the problem was, if I mapped the axis, as soon as I let go of the ministick, it would return the designator to center.
I tried mapping keys with CH mapping software, but could not get it to work.

But, using AutoHotKey it was easy. It sends a keystroke repeatedly, when the axis goes higher than a certain point.
ie.
X < 30 send ,
X > 70 send /
...

I can post the config if anyone wants it.


So, ya - you could do your axis detents easy -- just check for a value between two points, and if true, send a single keystroke. You can save the previous value to a variable, so you can tell if it's going up or down.
Not sure if you can still directly use the throttle and have it send keys too -- I think it interecepts the joystick values. But, if you had a second throttle (on a joystick perhaps?), you could work something out.


bolox00

SVMapper is new, he appeared in Sukhoi forum about a month or two. This forum is actually down.

The last vestion for download is available in LockOn forum:
http://forum.lockon.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=10391&d=1175871138
http://forum.lockon.ru/showthread.php?t=21505&highlight=SVMapper

Sokol1

VFS-214_Hawk
04-23-2007, 03:24 PM
Originally posted by bolox00:
yes it is possible, providing you use double pole switches and keep the led circuit separate from the controller circuit. padser did this in this thread
http://forums.ubi.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/26310365/m/9831081034

personally i'd have used a separate 5v supply for the leds, not draw power from unused axes from the controller- but apparently it works- but hey if it works....

hawk, at simhq you say you are getting erratic switching on some circuits- is his restricted to switches/ buttons that are connected to a row that has a locking toggle? and no diode on one/any of them?. sounds like diodes required on the rest of switches to me,( or it could be 'dodgy soldering' or a short on the tails of the diodes?- try pvc tape to insulate?)
if all switches work ok with every other switch 'centred' diodes would be indicated.

sokol's utility is better than joytokey- couldn't find a link- the press/release function might help but i'd make sure windows is seeing everything correctly before adding anything else which could 'confuse' matters

The switches are ono-on switches. There are only three that do it. Canopy, gear and hook. No problems with any others. The on-on switches aforementioned are wired both on-on for the same command and all have diodes. It may be cheep switches! My cowl flap switch is a momentary on-(on) with no connection so the bottom "on" is actually "off". This one works flawless as well as others. All pushbuttons are fine! The flap((on)-off-(on)) works great.

Here is what I have as psoted over at SimHQ

he panel is set for the F4U Corsair and is basically set for initial take-off. Much like a check list..lol

Row 1 - Canopy/on-on, instrument lights/on-on, nav lights/on-on, Landing light/on-on(though not used on F4U), cowl flaps-off-(on)(*momentary switch), ignition/off-(on)

Row 2 - flaps/(on)-off-(on), tailwheel lock/on-on, gear/on-on, tail hook/on-on, air brake/on-on, wing fold/on-off-on

Row 3 - Chocks/on-on, parking brake/on-on(bugged), mirror/on-(on)(push button), map/on-(on)(push button), speed bar/on-(on)(push button), not assigned/on-on

Row 4 - jettison drop tanks/off-(on), Rockets/off(on), Bombs/off(on), not assigned/off-(on)(push button), (F4F)Manual gear up/off-(on)(push button), (F4F)Manual gear down/off-(on)(push button)

I am changing things as I go.

Esel1964
04-23-2007, 09:20 PM
Nice work. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/25.gif

bolox00
04-24-2007, 02:08 AM
presume the probs are in game and you have assigned controls ingame, so they appear joybutton1 id2 or similar?

first thing is to check windows is seeing all of the buttons in game controllers>bu...>properties.
with all switches set to off, all 32 buttons should appear 'dark', correct?
then test each switch to on individually. one (only) button should light up and stay on while switch held? no flickering on it or any other buttons?
if this goes fine repeat the process but with one of the on off on switches on, then try with two left on. sorry this takes time but being methodical finding/describing the error/fault helps. any faults can you relate them to row/column numbers- a pattern might show up

hopefully all is ok, so your controller/wiring is ok.

i don't think the bu has any way of setting button timings/behaviour directly so it might be worth trying one of the keyboard emulator programs-svmapper maybe?(cheers for the link sokol-lost a few bookmarks on reformat doh http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/35.gif )
might be useful to create a new pilot for testing and try just one of the troublesome functions at a time? trying it on different switches if there is a problem?
get everything working fine in your 'test' pilot then you can copy the settings to your normal pilot(s). might be a good idea to backup your users folder first.

here's hoping oleg includes options for separate up/down functions in bob

VFS-214_Hawk
04-24-2007, 05:01 AM
bolox

Good info!

Below is a screenshot of my SVMapper selection commands. As you can see there are a few switches that are set on-on. I am in the process of changing them to off-on using the "mapped key/continuous option. This saves on the diodes and eases wiring/soldering. This has helped in my problem but I still think it is a situation of cheep switches. When I get it all done, I will post again about it. When I get my wiring "clean" I will post a pic of it.

Thanks for all the help and insight guys!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/SVMapper.jpg

bolox00
04-24-2007, 06:07 AM
.. saves on diodes ?- you really need diodes on every switch/button connected to any row/column with any non momentary switch on it.
even if the non mom switch has a diode on it, while switched on and another button without a diode on it is pressed the controller can get 'confused' as to which is pressed.

but if under windows your setup works under all circumstances/permutations of switch positions then carry on , you certainly seem to have grasped sv.

cheap switches- maybe, but i'd eliminate other causes first, diodes,shorts,dry/dodgy soldering would be my order of testing.

BillyTheKid_22
04-24-2007, 06:17 AM
Howdy!! VFS-214_Hawk, Wow, Great JOB!!! You are very Nice. http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif



http://www.aviation-history.com/images/f4ub1.jpg



http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif


www.provenancefightersales.com/ (http://www.provenancefightersales.com/)

ibeagle
04-24-2007, 09:18 AM
Nice work mate. Keep us informed. I'm especially interested in the programing side, does anyone know if one of the utilities can map the radiator to a rotary? The software would have to be able to calculate the correct number of times to press R when moving the lever in the close direction.

bolox00
04-24-2007, 11:08 AM
ibeagle, in theory it might be possible with ch or cougar software (and hardware)- probably need nearly all the logical flags available to a cougar tho.
one problem is different planes have differing radiator cycles.

i even had a delve into devicelink last night to see if there was any way of setting it specifically, or even just reading it for a dial display, just cycle cowl- maybe i'm missing something but couldn't find it- but to my knowledge neither has anyone else.

here's to hoping for better things in this area also in bob

VFS-214_Hawk
04-24-2007, 03:08 PM
bolox Leo told me I needed diodes on all switches that will remain "closed"...thats the extent of my experience...lol

I looked everything over and can not find any problems. I noticed when I transition the switch from one position to the next, the red light on SVMapper momentarily goes out...as expected. However when the command fails, I notice the light never goes out! I brought home a few switches we use on our autopilot system in the Maule airplanes. I will check it out and see if it is better. Never had a problem with these in airplanes, lts see how it works on the computer. Same specs!

bolox00
04-24-2007, 05:43 PM
ok, if leo says so, he certainly should know.
from personal experience of matrix inputs without diodes, occasional missing inputs was one symptom, hence my suspicion of that.

from your description i can see why you would think the switch might be at fault, certainly try changing it for your aviation spec ones, maybe try a momentary switch if that doesn't work?
or even shorting the 2 relevant wires together http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_eek.gif

there's a post in the hardware support forum at
http://www.betainnovations.com/
called 'toggle switches'- sorry can't direct link -might give you some more insight.

VFS-214_Hawk
04-24-2007, 05:59 PM
bolox I tried removing a few diodes and it started going crazy...lol I will have to continue to learn this and get the concept in my brain correctly. Then I might can explain it better in order to get it working at its best. I may just have to rewire the whole shebang!

SO far this is what I found to work best.

on-on, diode on one end making it an on-off using SVMapper double button mode.

All other switches are fine without SVMapper although I am using it for everything now.

This is driving me bananas!

bolox00
04-25-2007, 12:58 AM
hang on in there, i'm sure the 'eureka' moment isn't too far off.

what concepts are you struggling with?

mmitch10
04-25-2007, 01:38 AM
VFS-214_Hawk, I've just finished my box using Leo's controller. I read somewhere (sorry, at work now, can't find the link) that you can have up to three switches that remain closed without needing diodes. My box has 2 switches that remain closed and no diodes, the rest of the switches are "push-to-make", and works no problem.

I tested this by holding down 4 of the push-to-makes and then pressing a 5th switch. This triggered all the switches in that column (I'm referring to the column/row system for connecting the switches to Leo's controller). Is that what you meant by it going crazy?

I'm still wrestling with a way to map a slider to fuel mixture, I tried Sokol's suggestion last night, but I'm still getting used to Autohotkey. I'll post back here if I get it to work.

VFS-214_Hawk
04-25-2007, 04:54 AM
sound right mitch. I have two switches in the first column that remain closed, two in the second column, two in the third column and up to one in the forth. There can be more when I need them like the speed brake etc. Bolox, I guess thats the concept, trying to figure out which in a column/row that remain or can remain closed in a given flight. What will be "closed" during take-off, inflight, combat and then landing. I may have three closed then decide to flip on nav lights and lower airbrakes...then I would be in trouble...lol

I flew again last night and I still like the box, it makes it so much easier and enjoyable.

VFS-214_Hawk
04-26-2007, 06:40 PM
I have rewired my box. It certainly looks better..lol I only installed one diode on switches other than dual function commands such as wing flaps.

I started everything from scratch. I reset controls to default then opened SVMapper. I gave my switches a description and did an ops check. As expected when I flip the switch on, canopy opens but when I switch it off, nothing happens. I then used SVMapper to use a mapped key to allow the switch to act as a true "on-off". I added a "maped key on press" and a "mapped key on release". This has worked for the canopy and panel lights. However, for the Nav Lights, Landing Light and Dive Brakes, this does not work. I have played with the options but can't get it to work properly. Any ideas?

bolox00
04-26-2007, 11:46 PM
one test might help show up what svmapper is actually outputting. try opening notepad and operating your switches.
check for correct operation and try playing with the options to see what effect they have.

might help see what's going on

VFS-214_Hawk
04-27-2007, 04:42 PM
Originally posted by bolox00:
one test might help show up what svmapper is actually outputting. try opening notepad and operating your switches.
check for correct operation and try playing with the options to see what effect they have.

might help see what's going on

Check while notepad is open?

Here is what is in notepad, BTW I have not changed anything sense last night but now instrument light switch is back to one command toggle.

Don't quit yet understand the following numbers but I am looking into it now. Look at the canopy toggle. What is the number 211 mean?

See anything suspicious?



[{05B516C0-0000-0000-0000-504944564944},{3D4E6340-EEAA-11DB-8001-444553540000},BU0836 Interface]
Name=Joystick2
NumberOfButtons=32
NumberOfPOVs=1
[Joystick2\Button0]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=46
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=46
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Canopy
[Joystick2\Button1]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=211
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=211
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Instrument Lights
[Joystick2\Button2]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=207
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=207
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Navigation Lights
[Joystick2\Button3]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=209
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=209
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Landing Light
[Joystick2\Button4]
Description=Cowl Flaps
[Joystick2\Button5]
Description=Ignition, Start/Stop
[Joystick2\Button7]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=20
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=20
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Tailwheel Lock
[Joystick2\Button8]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=34
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=34
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Landing Gear
[Joystick2\Button9]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=35
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=35
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Arrester Hook
[Joystick2\Button10]
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=16
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Dive Brake
[Joystick2\Button11]
Description=Wing Fold
[Joystick2\Button12]
OnDownCount=1
OnDown=33
OnDownRepeat=1
OnUpCount=1
OnUp=33
OnUpRepeat=1
Description=Wheel Chocks
[Joystick2\Button13]
Description=Parking Brake
[Joystick2\Button14]
Description=Mirror
[Joystick2\Button15]
Description=Map
[Joystick2\Button16]
Description=KTS/MPH
[Joystick2\Button18]
Description=Jettison External Tanks
[Joystick2\Button19]
Description=Rocket Launch
[Joystick2\Button20]
Description=Bomb Release
[Joystick2\Button22]
Description=Manual Gear Up
[Joystick2\Button23]
Description=Manual Gear Down
[Joystick2\Button24]
Description=Flaps Down
[Joystick2\Button25]
Description=Flaps Up

Here is a pic. Labels are temporary. All buttons and switches are consecutive from top left to bottom right except for the first switch on the second row. This is switch 25 and 26. Switch position 7 is omitted. Normal count then on with tailwheel lock being switch 8.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0879.jpg

bolox00
04-27-2007, 08:17 PM
ok, my bad on the description, what i meant was try opening a new, blank notepad file, and then test the operation of each switch- it should write a letter in notepad, with each press and another on release- hopefully the correct one.


what you've posted is the profile/ini file from within svmapper???

i would have thought that the numbers are the coded equivalent of letters, and as some are greater than 128 might indicate an extension of the ascii code
such as
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Code_page_1252
doesn't look like that particular one but you get the idea.- that's my guess anyway

VFS-214_Hawk
04-27-2007, 08:56 PM
lol, thats cool.

I may have my switches upside down...lol First initial push up or "on" I get nothing. Then when I switch back off, I get the letter C for canopy open/close.

I'll play with it for a while and see what I get into here.

bolox00
04-28-2007, 07:33 AM
the missing first keystroke is strange, but if it is restricted to this first error only, you could incorporate testing/alignment(use keyboard to align)of switches into your preflight checks.

does this missing keystroke behaviour show up in game controllers>bu0836>properties ?

VFS-214_Hawk
04-28-2007, 07:44 AM
Well, on the SVMapper, all switches operate as they should. Inside the control settings, in IL2, when I set commands the "up-toggle" selection will not activate the command..only when I switch back "off" will it allow/select the command. They are not upside down as I thought...I forgot that inside SVMapper they are fine.

I'll keep playing with it till I figure it out.

Today I hooked up a pot for my rudder trim slidder. It works great!

In the pic you can see it. I turned the knob around and made some center, right and left trim reference marks.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0878-1.jpg

VFS-214_Hawk
04-28-2007, 12:09 PM
Think its finished for now cept for the placards.
Rudder trim slider is on the throttle. Elevator and flap sliders are on the box.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0888.jpg

triggerhappyfin
04-28-2007, 12:28 PM
I made a similar switch panel some time ago.
I made it out of a surplus x-36 combo.

I made the labeling in photoshop...http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Triggerhappyfin/Image1.jpg

VFS-214_Hawk
04-28-2007, 12:49 PM
Aw man, thanks trigger!

VFS-214_Hawk
04-28-2007, 01:39 PM
Trigger, I have been plying with your decals in paint shop...Awsome man...thanks again!

VFS-214_Hawk
04-28-2007, 07:40 PM
I don't think it will ever be finished but thanks to triggerhappyfin here is what the placards look like.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0889.jpg

triggerhappyfin
04-29-2007, 01:35 AM
Looks great! Nice to have been to some help.

Sokol__1
04-29-2007, 02:02 AM
Well, on the SVMapper, all switches operate as they should. Inside the control settings, in IL2, when I set commands the "up-toggle" selection will not activate the command...only when I switch back "off" will it allow/select the command. They are not upside down as I thought...I forgot that inside SVMapper they are fine.

If I understood correctly has something wrong.

SVMapper is a keystroke emulator, if you put DEL keystroke for Instruments Lights in SVMapper, supposes that you previously put DEL in the controls of IL2 for this function (Instruments Lights). You cannot try to designate the same button of BU0836 in Controls of IL2, for this or other function.
Just designate functions (in IL2 Controls) for the buttons no mapped by SVMapper.

Sokol1

VFS-214_Hawk
04-29-2007, 08:36 AM
Soko I stayed up until 3am this morning when I figured that out.... http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/88.gif I just woke up and came in to post my findings. You are correct, I was mapping both IL2 key commands and Leo's commands. They were conflicting causing erratic reuluts. I removed Leo's (BU0836) commands from IL2 while using SVMapper and everything works great! I now have 18 toggles and 6 pushbuttons. Three of the pushbuttons are not assigned yet!

I also have hooked up three sliders as stated in an above post. Vater, rudder and flap control sliders trim! I love it!

Think this will be my last photo.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0890.jpg

Me many years ago!
http://a15.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_52095481d0054d576523a58620d662de.jpg

VFS-214_Hawk
04-29-2007, 07:04 PM
Oh yeah, I forgot. Someone asked for a pic of the wiring. Here it is...not a great job but it works.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0894.jpg

Huxley_S
04-29-2007, 07:27 PM
The decals you have put on make it look like a real professional bit of kit. Perhaps the appearance could be improved with a metal washer on the outside of each switch so that they are flush to the surface. At the moment the switches look indented into the project box. Maybe that's just a very subjective comment.

I hope to follow your example in the future and especially want to include trim sliders.

VFS-214_Hawk
04-30-2007, 04:45 AM
Huxley, the nuts and washers are behind the Plexiglas. I planed on putting lights inside the Plexiglas to light up the white names. Its not WWII but I liked it....it cleans it up a bit.

Sokol__1
04-30-2007, 09:52 AM
Mmitch10



I'm still wrestling with a way to map a slider to fuel mixture, I tried Sokol's suggestion last night, but I'm still getting used to Autohotkey. I'll post back here if I get it to work.

In Autohotkey forum here a sample of script for use axis in band, probable for IL2, make by guy caled BaldieJr:

http://www.autohotkey.com/forum/topic469.html&highlight=axis+band

================================================
#Persistent
#SingleInstance
SetFormat, float, 03
JoystickNumber = 2 ; Set this to joystick to be used.
state = 000
current = 0
Loop
{
sleep, 100
GetKeyState, joyu, %JoystickNumber%JoyU
If state <> %joyu%
{
Loop
{
if joyu < 10
{
if current = 1
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 0 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 1
Break
}
else if joyu < 20 ; between 10 and 19
{
if current = 2
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 10 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 2
Break
}
else if joyu < 30 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 3
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 30 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 3
Break
}
else if joyu < 40 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 4
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 40 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 4
Break
}
else if joyu < 50 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 5
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 50 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 5
Break
}
else if joyu < 60 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 6
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 60 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 6
Break
}
else if joyu < 70 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 7
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 70 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 7
Break
}
else if joyu < 80 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 8
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 80 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 8
Break
}
else if joyu < 90 ; between 20 and 29
{
if current = 9
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 90 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 9
Break
}
else ; joyu >= 100
if current = 10
{
Break
}
Send, Setting Mixture 100 Percent {enter}
state = %joyu%
current = 10
Break
}
}
}


==================================================

Sokol1

mmitch10
04-30-2007, 10:04 AM
Thanks Sokol, I'll try that out tonight. Not much time to finish this lately. Seems that the last few bits and pieces of a job like this take all the effort!

mmitch10
04-30-2007, 02:29 PM
Thanks for the link, Sokol, and for the hard work BaldieJr. I copied this into a new Autohotkey script, took me about 20 minutes of messing about with the parameters and I've now got mixture on a slider! Hopefully when BoB comes out I'll be able to map it directly without running a script, but this is a simple way to map to a slider in the meantime.

VFS-214_Hawk
04-30-2007, 07:44 PM
Ok, I am completely finished. This is it!
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0895.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/100_0896.jpg

BaldieJr
04-30-2007, 07:51 PM
I really should get back to work on my cockpit. I'm soooo lazy.

Huxley_S
04-30-2007, 09:25 PM
Very, very nice. How about making those decals available as a download.

http://forums.ubi.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

Black44
05-01-2007, 04:47 AM
Nice work there Hawk !! good to see someone using the Leo's Usb Controller, heard so much about it.

Here's my switchbox using 2 joystick (logitech Pro..broken axis and a cheap " Self " Jstick ).After the death of my X-45...wire problem between throttle to Joystick..2nd time now !! http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-mad.gif

The rotaries on the left box are :
Prop Pitch , Elevator Trim , Throttle , Flaps
and other box ,Rudder Trim , Airlion Trim..and extras.

The hat switch = 4way button but push 2 switches would give me extra 4 button if you know what I mean. eg: compass N ne E se S sw W nw just be careful how you assign which commands.

Also had to adjust the 3 base buttons on the Jstick and put them on my left side.(note the red buttons ). All up easy to do ,yeah soldering can be bit tricky at times.

Oh ! also my switches are On-Off-On (up-center-down) I bridge the On contacts so 'gears up' switch can be up or down.Also whenever I "Switch" it needs to return to center position ,or else reports as constant key press.
BTW I have no electronic experience..so if I can do it YOU can too..just look at these forums!!

http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/3913/jsticks2au0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Oh here's my modded Joystick rudder pedals I made..works like a dream. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/16x16_smiley-wink.gif

http://img457.imageshack.us/img457/9554/rudderpedal2zx9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I will post this all on the JoystickModder thread later.

VFS-214_Hawk
05-01-2007, 04:58 AM
triggerhappyfin started the decals with his above post. I just made them what I wanted in paintshop pro. The trim circles are from his mag switch. Thanks triggerhappyfin.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/PanelPlacards.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f36/CurtissHawk/PanelPlacards1.jpg

triggerhappyfin
05-01-2007, 05:24 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/Triggerhappyfin/429252.jpg

I've mentioned it before but if you've not seen it I'll say it again.

Try precision pots for trims. I use pots with 10 turns, end to end. They really add to the trimming resolution.

mmitch10
05-03-2007, 02:04 AM
I took triggerhappyfin's advice some months ago on 10-turn pots for trimming, and he's right, they really improve trimming accurately.

VFS-214_Hawk
05-04-2007, 04:53 AM
I may have forgot to post this but I found out my problem with the true toggles. I was double programing them using ingame commands with controller ID and SVMapper commands. I had to change this. For example I use G for gear-up/down WITH joystick ID2 in the IL2 profile. In SVMapper I have the "Mapped key on press" and "Mapped key on release" set to G as well.

What got me was inside the IL2 control panel, I was using "G" AND the switch ID. Cant do this!

ddpairborne59
05-04-2007, 11:46 AM
Originally posted by mmitch10:
I took triggerhappyfin's advice some months ago on 10-turn pots for trimming, and he's right, they really improve trimming accurately. http://forums.ubi.com/images/smilies/agreepost.gif

Ditto!

VFS-214_Hawk
05-04-2007, 03:07 PM
Where can I get these pots?

mmitch10
05-07-2007, 06:44 AM
I got my 10 turn pots mail order from RS components in the UK, made by Vishay. Not cheap, and it can be frustrating sometimes finding the centre point again. The ones I bought don't seem to be around any more, but here's a link to a source in the UK: http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do...0&cacheID=uknetscape (http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=22mm%2010%20Turn%207286%20 Series&Ntk=I18NAll&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Nty=1&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&Ntt=22mm%2010%20Turn%207286%20Series&Ntx=mode%20matchany&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=4607526&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0051101654.1178541595@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccciaddklgfmhedcefeceeldgkidhgi.0&cacheID=uknetscape)

Still working on my box, everything wired up and working including mixture on a slider (not really necessary I know but everything else that could be on a slider already is). Once it's all labelled up I'll post pics

ibeagle
05-07-2007, 09:24 PM
It would seem center detent pots would be the ones for trim. Can anyone link to those?

ibeagle
05-07-2007, 09:34 PM
If using Leo's configuration utility or Il-2 Joy Control, is it possible for the physical markings of the flap settings (using a pot) to be accurately represented? ie. 3 o'clock for flaps up, 5 o'clock for flaps landing, and the two positions in between? As opposed to using the full 270 degree arc of the pot.

mmitch10
05-08-2007, 01:33 AM
Originally posted by ibeagle:
If using Leo's configuration utility or Il-2 Joy Control, is it possible for the physical markings of the flap settings (using a pot) to be accurately represented? ie. 3 o'clock for flaps up, 5 o'clock for flaps landing, and the two positions in between? As opposed to using the full 270 degree arc of the pot.

Not sure how I would deal with flaps on a rotary pot. I made a set of four levers, each one connected to a slider pot, and have flaps on one of those (same with prop pitch, throttle and mixture) and only use rotary pots for trim.

As for the centre detent pots, that would seem a good way to go but I didn't think of that when ordering mine. Not sure if you can get 10 turn centre detents!

mmitch10
09-02-2007, 02:52 PM
I promised some time ago to post a picture of the controller I built using Leo's controller...

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/mmitch10/08Maize.2015.jpg

The four levers are connected to pots and control pitch, throttle, flaps and mixture, the three 10-turn rotaries are trim, then various buttons are used for different functions such as lights, rockets, bombs, WEP, auto-pitch etc. Unfortunately I had to build everything in one small box rather than to scale, due to space constraints and having two destructive kids at home!

Finnish_Mik
09-12-2007, 04:11 PM
Hello,

new on the forums here.

I built a panel with a mate from a joypad.

We housed the joypad motherboard in a new box, installed push-to-make switches and worked out the soldering on the 'motherboard' to find the common earth for the switches and the 'live' lines for each switch. The switches work great: pictures to follow.

We've hit a snag with the pots though: the pots that originally came on the joypad were soldered onto the board directly and had three inputs intom each (I assume a live, a neutral and something else?). The problem we have now is that whenever we turn one of the pots we've fitted and wired in, we get movement on two axes rather than one: we've got four pots, with four axes, but two of these will move when we twist one pot. It's a nightmare in the game: you are trying to set your trim, and your head turns left!



I have no idea how we've managed to do this: we've took the box apart and double-checked the pots wiring for a short, and disconnected pots. The pots will only work when we have a pair fitted; they won't work if only one is connected to the board (a clue?).

Is it possible to run a pot with only two inputs runnng to it? A 'live' and an earth?

Has anyone seen this kind of thing when building their joystick into a control box?

Thanks

FM

Sokol__1
09-12-2007, 06:34 PM
We've hit a snag with the pots though: the pots that originally came on the joypad were soldered onto the board directly and had three inputs intom each (I assume a live, a neutral and something else?). The problem we have now is that whenever we turn one of the pots we've fitted and wired in, we get movement on two axes rather than one: we've got four pots, with four axes, but two of these will move when we twist one pot. It's a nightmare in the game: you are trying to set your trim, and your head turns left!

Finnish-MIk,

I already saw what you describe in a joypad that I hack. My opinion is that happens because: These joypad type have only 3 AXIS, one axis is divide in two to work like accelerator and brakes in racing games.

Sokol1

Finnish_Mik
09-13-2007, 02:51 PM
Thanks for replying Sokol_1.

Is there a way to get round this behaviour, or is it something to do with all Joypads?

Buying Joypads via Ebay from China is very cheap, but maybebthgey don't work for us.

Must find a Joystick to hack from, or buy a USB controller board to start with?

Thanks again

FM

potver
10-03-2007, 07:30 AM
Hi,

I also made a buttonpanel with Leo,s little wonder which works very well.
Only I need some additional words for the panel and want to make it with photoshop.
I have an font with stencil letters for it.
Is there someone who can help me making those ( white) words on a black background? because I just began with photoshop and don,t know how to make it.

Thanks in advance.

Vanderstok
01-11-2008, 01:54 AM
Another idea. This is what I started out with, before I built it into a simpit. I called it the "deskpit". Also built using Leo's controller.

Tip: the black panels with white letters are actually prints on photo-paper. The photo-paper is thick enough to pass for metal sheet and is glossy. Use some tiny nuts and bolts and it looks pretty real.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l304/vanderstok/Simpit/deskpit_layout.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l304/vanderstok/Simpit/deskpit04.jpg

Finnish_Mik
08-25-2008, 03:03 PM
Hello Vanderstock,

your idea of printing the switch backs on photopaper looks really good.

Could you share the image files you created for your switch panels please? Like the lights panel in your pictures.

I'm not a wiz in photoshop and would be very happy to use yours if that's ok.

Kind Regards

FM