System instability | Forums

[VW-IceFire]

Hi all,

Ok...been fighting a technical problem for the better part of a week and I'd like to grab some advise before I start spending money or considering some more drastic measures.

My computer has been exhibiting the following symptoms:

- crackling and distortion through speakers while the computer is on and particularly during times when no audio is being played and I'm doing something like photo editing in Photoshop
- random and variable inputs from my X-52 HOTAS and Joystick (at one point when I was flying an IL-2 mission I could see the flaps going up and down rapidly and the throttle moving back and forth 1-2%)
- USB mouse connects and disconnects itself (just browsing a website) or exhibits random movements
- experienced several total system reboots

So far I've got Asus PC Probe working to watch the power inputs and I see the following (this is after a typical web surfing session, with mouse and joystick plugged in, and some music playing through Winamp)



There seems to be a fair bit of movement on the 5v display...is that more than I should expect? I've read several websites but not come to any conclusions on the matter.

I've also run Memtest86 and Prime95 in stress test mode (for 30 minutes) without any issues. So far the symptoms seem to occur at random times...typically I'm doing something so at idle it seems to not be a problem and I can stress the system right out and nothing will happen...OR it will happen.

My theory is that its either the PSU or the motherboard with me leaning towards PSU more than motherboard.

Any other educated guesses or feelings? I'm sort of stuck...but I figure if I have to chance it a new PSU is allot less of a problem to put into place than a new motherboard.

Important system specs:
AMD Athlon XP 2700+ (T-Bred B)
1GB of PC2700 RAM (2x512)
Onboard nVidia Soundstorm APU
XFX GeForce 6600GT 128mb AGP 8X
Saitek X-52
Antec TruePower 330W

The inside of the case is reasonably clean and isn't that dusty (dust filter is in place for all its worth). All fans appear to be functioning normally.

Help?

[x6BL_Brando]

I ran a similar system a while back and I'd be tempted to try another psu. The TruPower was a good unit in its time - did it come with the case?

I bought 3 Chieftec cases all with the own-label 360W PSU fitted. I found I needed more power in one when I added an Ati 9700 Pro. I fitted a Q-Tec (a cheapie rated at 450W) and had a terrible three weeks with it, then I shifted to an Enermax 465 which made everything smooth.

(Edit: I should've said that I had to retire all of them eventually but they gave good service. The Enermax 465 rig is now my wife's', the file server uses another Enermax (420) and I have a Hiper 580 in this one.)

So you need to avoid el-cheapo, generic units and go for a well-known and recommended brand name. But you may need to think ahead here to what might happen when BoB or KotS arrive on the scene. If you plan to upgrade to a newer model, and hope to use parts of this rig in a 'new'-build, then you might want to fork out for a state of the art 700W+ unit. If you just plan to retire this box, hand it on or use it as a file server then a 450-500W unit will see it OK, I think. Note that there have been changes in ATX plugs and PSU specs, and not all PSUs will necessarily have 20-pin connectors as standard, so watch that.

It's certainly worth taking a close look at the motherboard before taking the plunge. Check to see that all the little capacitors (i think they're called) have flat, clean tops. Any that have 'domed-up' or that display any browning of the silver top can be considered faulty or suspect. This occurs most frequently to the 'capacitors' around the CPU socket. If you don't notice any damage then it's likely the PSU.

Transferring everything to a new mobo isn't desperately difficult - but you'd have to go via eBay for a Socket A mobo.

B

[B16Enk]

Hmm.

I recently retired an Asus board with a 2700+ in it because of just those symptoms, except USB seemed fine.

The Antec Truepower (can't remember wattage) is now supplying juice comfortably to a Gigabyte board and a 3700+ San Diego and an ATI X1950.

I found the crackling in the speakers was unbearable.

Can't recall what the 5V Asus Probe readings were, but the system is now stable despite an in-place windows repair/install for the new chipset.

[VW-IceFire]

Thanks for the responses!

Yeah the TruePower 330W came with the Antec case that I bought. This is back a few years (as no doubt you can tell) and the TruePower was a very solid PSU by all of the reviews. I have run this system hard (IL-2 is a killer) for four years so I guess I had a pretty good run with it.

I was thinking about a Earthwatt 380W as a replacement if I need to (its only about $50 which is good for Canadian computer parts). They have a detachable part for the 24pin/20pin setup on that one so I should be safe for plugging things in. I want to keep the system running so I can pass it off to one family member or another in about 6 months when all of the new 45nm Core 2 Duos come out so I am hoping to keep this one going for just a bit longer.

I am going to open it up again and have a very serious look at all of the capacitors and see if anything looks out of the ordinary. Thats a great suggestion. I will do that!

Odd that we were both having similar symptoms B16Enk...I guess there is always a chance that its both...or that one has damaged the other and is conspiring to create the actual issue.

[claypidgon]

I just cant belive that a 330Wat PW supply is enough for anything these days...

[VW-IceFire]

Well folks...I've "figured" it out. Popped open the case and did a visual inspection of everything inside. Nothing looked amiss. So I started to pull a few things out here and there...everything was fine till I got to the power cord. It was stuck...couldn't pull it out. I had to use a screwdriver and pry it out gently. At this point I discovered that two of the pins were black, the plastic had melted and broken off, and two more pins were also dark although not melted yet.

SO...it seems that the culprit is probably...as suspected...the power supply. One of the motherboard pins is black as well. Not sure if I've got some permanent damage on the motherboard as well but I think maybe a new PSU and retirement from my heavy gaming ways on this machine are the solution.

[Banger2004]

Originally posted by VW-IceFire:
Well folks...I've "figured" it out. Popped open the case and did a visual inspection of everything inside. Nothing looked amiss. So I started to pull a few things out here and there...everything was fine till I got to the power cord. It was stuck...couldn't pull it out. I had to use a screwdriver and pry it out gently. At this point I discovered that two of the pins were black, the plastic had melted and broken off, and two more pins were also dark although not melted yet.

SO...it seems that the culprit is probably...as suspected...the power supply. One of the motherboard pins is black as well. Not sure if I've got some permanent damage on the motherboard as well but I think maybe a new PSU and retirement from my heavy gaming ways on this machine are the solution.

Sounds like a bad connection. This causes resistance which of course then causes heat, and then you have melting plastic and so on. Had a similiar problem with a molex connector once, which surprised me because of the low current involved. Funny thing electricity.

[VW-IceFire]

Indeed...electricity is a very funny thing. I've done some basic electronics stuff before and I've worked with some computer repair folks before and seen quite a few things

I've spec'ed a few components out for myself at a very reasonable price in Canadian dollars.

Core 2 Duo E6850
Asus P5K-C
Mushkin XP2-8500 DDR2-1066 2x1GB
BFG GeForce 8600GTS OC2 (w/ TI)
Antec Sonata III
Antec EarthWatts 500W
320GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 NCQ
LG GSA-H62N 18X DVD-Writer Black SATA

Thats going to run me about $1460 after tax. Any thoughts? I'm currently trying to make sure that the EarthWatts 500W is going to be able to do the job. I'm not really into going for some huge monster 800W or 1000W PSU if I really don't have to.