Hey Airdale,
You sound like a sonartech? Airborn?

One thing I noticed is that doppler is not modeled in the active sonar.

SOG2 USN, 1957-1961

Dead on, Satch.

Aviation Anti-Submarine Warfare Operator. Mostly P-3C, but a little S-3B time and more than I ever wanted of the old SH-3 War Winabago. Had to keep that flight pay comin' somehow.

I appreciated the H-3 a lot more after a couple dozen hours hunched over in the SH-60. At least you could stand up and stretch.

It's really too bad doppler isn't modeled. Lots of good data to be gleaned. TMA will give you a lot of the same data, but not as accurately, and with a fair bit of ambiguity.

Does anyone play silent Hunter wolves of the pacific anymore i been wanting to play online but i dont see anyone on.... if i had silent hunter wolves of the pacific could i play online with ppl have diffrents one ?

Sorry Theriot that no one has replied to your question. Might be best to ask this in the Tech Help section : http://forums.ubi.com/eve/foru...=400102&f=6921019045

As far as playing online, you must have the same "supermod" installed as the one advertised in the session description. So if you have RFB, and the session says it's for TMO, you will most likely get a CTD.

Very helpful, thank you. Especially like the Decks Awash info. Waiting to dive bites. Some of the info confirms things I have suspected, like not being able to hide sitting on the bottom.

On plotting ambush courses, I have also found that using the pencil to X a target's location based on sonar in succession can give you a good idea of the speed and direction (or turns) of the target without risking detection repeatedly. You may have to stick your nose out once to verify if its a target or a friendly, but the less the better.
Using the protractor can give you a fairly accurate line of expected travel of target with the ability to carry that line out a long ways to set up an ambush well in front. The technique is to start your protactor at the first mark. Zooming in allows a more accurate pin. Zoom back out, zoom in again on the subsequent mark(s), lay the line over the newer marks and note the angle. Now you can zoom out and put your line at the same angle as far out as you want. If you only want the one line, LEFT CLICK 3 OR 4 TIMES WHERE YOU WANT IT TO END before you move it away. I find this more accurate than the direction tail. If I have to use the tail of a convoy out of hearing, the protactor allows me to zoom in and get a more accurate angle to project out further. Laying your ruler along the same line gives you distances which you can use to estimate their speed and know how far you need to run ahead to set up your ambush. Now, even if you loose contact, you'll have a pretty good idea where they will be and when they'll be there. You can also use the protractor angle to calculate what angle/heading you need for interception. Monitoring your passive sonar and making more X's on their new positions, you can compare to the long line for deviation. The protractor is often very close, but you can make slow, undetected fine tune adjustments because of your boat's position close to their line of travel well in advance of their arrival. By using the compass to draw several 1000 yard circles along the protractor line, you can know where you need to be. You can use the ruler to draw straight line tangents on the outer edges of the circles, creating a 'kill zone' box. If you have to deal with Destroyer Escorts (DE's), you can stay deep (at least below the thermal layer) until the last minute, because you know their line of travel and you are already where you need to be. This can give you the CRITICAL EDGE OF SURPRISE and give your shots a much better chance.

Example: Doing this, my crew was able to roll over a 33k Battleship to stern and blow-up a 16k Carrier and damage a Heavy Cruiser off the bow in one perfectly positioned ambush of a tactical force. Probably not at Periscope Depth more than 20-30 seconds. Dead still at 330ft, escorts passed unaware, went to periscope depth as the sonar signatures got near the 1000 yd circle, opened tubes as soon as possible coming up, then scoped up in the middle of the group and started pulling the trigger. Went back to 330ft and left quietly. DC's were never close, DE's had no idea where we were. By the time they got to where we had been, we were well under the thermal layer mentioned in another post and a quiet 1000 yds away. The cruiser did survive, but burned for hours.
It all came down to ambush prep. for 30 seconds of excitement. If you set up far enough in front of the target, they are more likely to stay on a straight line.
As mentioned by vietvetto above, don't worry about reloading at that point: survive. Once they know you are around, they will zig-zag like crazy and vary their speed making second shots are really tough to get any accuracy on. At that point, DE's will make your life miserable, too. Hotter than Hornets. Better to melt back into the trees and set up again further down the trail when they are off their guard, or just move on.
Keep your boat and your crew healthy as much as possible. The defacation can hit the cooling system all too easily.

As above, aircraft are NOT worth the risk. Shot down some 10-15 aircraft on the way to Honshu, figured to get my AA gunner a promotion. Problem was we couldn't go below about 160' after that without busting a seam. Even though no damage was reported, we had obviously taken a few stray rounds.
SHORT CAREER! Didn't even get to Honshu.

Better to use your points to upgrade crew, radar or deck gun before upgrading the AA gun, 'cause you really don't want to use it, anyway.

On taking good shots: use a spread. Don't just lock on a target and throw 3 torpedoes. Lock on a target to track, pull the trigger when angle is optimum/green, unlock, take a bow shot and then a stern shot. 3 shots like that can roll a battleship over much more quickly than 3 in the same hole. The bow shot opens up a hole that just pushes water in due to the forward motion/momentum of the boat (like the Titanic) and the stern shot is the coup-de-grace. Damage control is very difficult because there are 3 different places with major problems, IF they even have time for damage control. On a large capital ship you may want to add a couple extra shots to be sure, but we only had 4 stern tubes and that 33k battleship rolled over in less than a minute.
On smaller ships, like DE's, that only need one torpedoe hit to go down, a spread is like throwing a net. Even if they manage to avoid them all, I've seen them turn tail and run away scared! Helps make escape easy, albeit a frustrating loss of torpedoes.
On Merchant Ships: most will go down with 2 well placed hits, again a bow shot and a center shot. Stern shots may mess up the steerage, etc., but bow shots just fill 'em up with water and center shots break their back, the keel. The very front of the bow is very strong, but about 1/4 to a 1/3 of the way back is not so strong and the hole will still drink a lot of water if its anywhere on a frontal angle to the axis of the boat. The faster they try to go, the faster they go DOWN. The slower they go, the more vulnerable they are to a kill shot if you get a chance.

"Run Silent, Run Deep"

This message has been edited. Last edited by: uberdawg1,

here goes, please edit it if you like tambor, tuddly or klcarroll
-----
How to go though a channel without getting hit or going at x4
first get your ruler and draw a line between the two norwest part

then get your compass and draw a crilce bigger then 1/2 of your line.

and do the same on the other side

then drw a line though both of where the circle meet each other and then follow that route and you will esacpe quickly and unhrmed
-----
few
its over


yeh

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Samofrome,

quote:

Originally posted by Samofrome:
here goes, please edit it if you like tambor
-----
How to go though a channel without getting hit or going at x4
first get your ruler and draw a line between the two norwest part
https://un0odg.bay.livefilesto..._20.06.24_388.bmp%5B
then get your compass and draw a crilce bigger then 1/2 of your line.
https://un0odg.bay.livefilesto...-02_20.07.56_043.bmp
and do the same on the other side
https://un0odg.bay.livefilesto...-02_20.10.45_275.bmp
then drw a line though both of where the circle meet each other and then follow that route and you will esacpe quickly and unhrmed
-----
few
its over
and tambor, can you make those pictures
i think i might need help.

I'm afraid that whatever you inrtended this to be didn't come out very well. The links don't work either, did you check them before you posted, that's what I always do.

Try using Photobucket, it's very user friendly. Then when posting pics in a thread, use the [IMG] link, and not the direct link(They will display directly in the post)

quote:

Originally posted by tuddley3:
Try using Photobucket, it's very user friendly. Then when posting pics in a thread, use the [IMG] link, and not the direct link(They will display directly in the post)

err, how old to you have to be?

There is no age limit http://photobucket.com/

err, do you have to be in the us or canda because i'm 13 and i am in england and it won't let register.
what can i be doing worng?

Oops, I apologize, there is an age limit. You will be eligible on your next birthday, 14 is the limit.

From the terms of use :

Eligibility. Use of the Photobucket Services and/or registration to be a Member for the Photobucket Services ("Membership") is void where prohibited. By using the Photobucket Services, you represent and warrant that (a) all registration information you submit is truthful and accurate; (b) you will maintain the accuracy of such information; (c) you are 14 years of age or older; and (d) your use of the Photobucket Services does not violate any applicable law or regulation.

Samofrome, you could get Dropbox

Just signup, download and install, then in your system tray bottom right you'll see the Dropbox icon. Double click it and you'll a list of folders. If you put your images you want to show in the PUBLIC folder, right click and choose COPY PUBLIC LINK, then paste that link into your postings, it'll show up the pictures that you're practically hosting yourself.

Plus you get all the other added bonuses of Dropbox.

When you watch the Dropbox Video Tutorial, listen to the voice and tell me that's not Mr. VanDriessen, UmmKay...

quote:

Originally posted by tuddley3:
Oops, I apologize, there is an age limit. You will be eligible on your next birthday, 14 is the limit.

From the terms of use :

Eligibility. Use of the Photobucket Services and/or registration to be a Member for the Photobucket Services ("Membership") is void where prohibited. By using the Photobucket Services, you represent and warrant that (a) all registration information you submit is truthful and accurate; (b) you will maintain the accuracy of such information; (c) you are 14 years of age or older; and (d) your use of the Photobucket Services does not violate any applicable law or regulation.

i accapt your applogies and i lest have something to look forward to next year eccapt SH5 and books.
but thanks for telling me, then me ,err,

quote:

Originally posted by tuddley3:
When you watch the Dropbox Video Tutorial, listen to the voice and tell me that's not Mr. VanDriessen, UmmKay...

who's he (i hardly watch TV)

You ever hear of Beavis & Butthead ? Mr. VanDriessen was one of their school teachers.

So next year you start middle school huh ?

quote:

Originally posted by tuddley3:

So next year you start middle school huh ?

???
oh, err, in amreica i might, but in england we have primary (4-11yrs) then secandray(11-18yrs) then uni (18-21yrs) then work, i'll ask the kid from las vagus about school in america.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Samofrome,

I have discussed to the forum about how I feel about comments like that. Knock it off!!!

Tudds

This message has been edited. Last edited by: tuddley3,

quote:

Originally posted by tuddley3:
So next year you start middle school huh ?

yes

lol

Yeah, here in the US we have Elementary School (Kindergarten - 6th Grade), Middle School a.k.a. Jr High(Normally 7th - 8th Grade, but sometimes 7th - 9th), and then High School (9th or 10th - 12th Grade).

Good luck Sam,
Tudds