quote:

Originally posted by mmitch10:
Thanks rnzoli, sometimes I can't see the wood for the trees. That's a job for the Easter weekend (if I have time with all the beer, pizza and pr0n )

ROTFL
By the way, I had my fair share of troubleshooting over the Easter Holidays, no time for any of those!

switch safeties i get from maplins

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37319

quote:

Originally posted by rnzoli:
I am specially interested about the switches with safety covers. There are a couple of them I would like to protect that way , but my quick search at Farnell didn't turn up anything useful, there are more than 2000 types

So if you could post or PM me your part number list for the buttons/switches, I would greatly appreciate!

quote:

I bought everything from here: http://stores.ebay.com/PARTSPIPE

PARTSPIPE SHOPPING LIST:

1) 12pcs FOR AMPLIFIER,BASS RED CHICKEN HEAD KNOBS KNOB,R
Item number: 290266752673


2) 6pcs,Latching+Momentary On-Off-(On) Toggle Switch,B213
Item number: 290265153148


3) 12pcs, GREY Momentary Push-Button OFF-(ON) Switch,GY507
Item number: 300282804903


4) 12,RED Momentary Push-Button Off-(On) N/O Switch,R507
Item number: 120320395831


5) 8,Push to Make Amber 3v Led Off/On 250v Switch,A503L
Item number: 300281024959


6) Emergency Stop Mushroon PushButton 660V N/C Switch,132
Item number: 290283803836


7) 4,Car Fog Light Red Switch Safety Cover/Guard,R01
Item number: 300267563970


8) 3,illuminated Fog Light Switch Car/Boat/Motorbike,R07D
Item Number: 300136063816

Some suggestions:
1). I would avoid buying again "5) 8,Push to Make Amber 3v Led Off/On 250v Switch,A503L" because the lamps were burnt within 10 days, and cannot be replaced.

2). All buttons ( , ) feel a little bit CHINESE (if you know what i mean ). But they have an extremely good VALUE/MONEY factor!!

3). The "Latching-Momentary switches" have proved to be amazingly good and useful in IL-2 since they can be used both as switches AND buttons.

4). Beware that "4,Car Fog Light Red Switch Safety Cover/Guard,R01" are keep the switch ALWAYS ON if the cover is down. This is something easily fixed while assigning keys in IL2.

That is all

Excellent I gear up for shopping online!

Finally got around to getting my new desktop setup. My fiance is way too yuppie to ever allow me a 'pit' so I had to do the best I could with 21st century tasteful, LOL. At any rate, you can see my nice Revised Franken Potato and CH FS/PP. I will get the Track IR 4 thingy maybe for my birthday later this year (I got the hat clip though and I am fooling with setting up FreeTrack soon).
After much reading and checking I decided to go with the Sharp Aquos LC-46D85U, a 46 inch model that puts out 120 Hz (which allows use of Nvidia 3D Vision) on a 10 bit panel. I may also get some nice multi-function panels in the near future as well (fiance permitting). Its not as sweet as many of the custom one off jobs I have seen here in the forums, but then you guys dont know my fiance

Thanks Ken, this Franken Potato is kicking butts

Specs are: i7 940 @ 4.0 GHz, ASUS P6T Deluxe Version 2, 6 GB Corsair Dominator @ 1866, 2 x 4870x2 (Quad Crossfire), Ageia PhysX PPU card, Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty, 4 x OCZ Vertex 120 GB SSDs connected to special Highpoint RAID card running in RAID 0, Seagate 1 TB, Thermaltake Toughpower 1200W modular, Samsung 22x DVD burner and LG GGW-H20L Blue Ray Burner, Custom Watercooling by Swiftech and EK on the CPU, GPUs and PP, Logitech G15, MX Revolution and G7 wireless, Creative Gigaworks 750, Sharp LC-46D85U, and CH FS/PP plus Revised Franken Potato





http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum...thumb=1&d=1240188750

Work in progres...






I found that ammunition box on ebay, it's perfect.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Buchon1974,

Some random wiring exercise pictures

A lonely BU836:


A lonely Logitech FFB-capable board:



And now they are in the same housing!


With mechanics in view:

So the rnzoli stick is finally getting the Bodnar Unit it deserves!

I wonder how you will put them in parallel. twin IR sensors? shared sensor? IR sensors plus halls for the BU? crude pots for the Logi? FFB somehow decoupled from stick position?

Well, it had it for a long time, about a year, but it was sitting alone in the aluminimum housing underneath the stick mechanism. The Logitech board was 1 m away in its old stick base and had to plug it/unplug it every time setting up the desk for flying. It was actually dangerous, as the FFB pins could be easily shorted during this, blowing the FFB circuit immediately. I had one Logitech board dying that way - now I use that in the throtte (no FFB needed). Moreover, the long cabling is always a risk for picking up interference, especially from the power cables driving the FFB motors - they carry a high-frequency, high-current signal. Not a good design choice from Logitech, but what to do - this is done by a standard circuit, basically manipulating the length of full power left/full power right cycles. When the FFB motor should produce no power, it gets 50%-50% share of this, and when it has to produce a medium left force, the time-slot for applying the full left power increases, e.g., to 70% to 30%. Due to the momentum of the motor and high frequency of the changeovers, it all averages out eventually, but this contaminates the electromagnetic fields quite badly, so everything had to be shielded to the maximum extent and even that way, the BU could pick up noise when the FFB was turned on.

So in order to remove the risk of shorting and also reduce the lenght of the wires going back and forth, I decided to move the Logitech board into the same housing. There is only one sensor per axis, no duplicated sensors. The BU6363 has got the upper hand, so to speak - the IR sensors are driven from it and the return signal goes straight in to the BU input, and also, in parallel, over a 330 kOhm resistor into the the Logitech board.

Hey rnzoli, have you considered this kind of PCB stand-off?

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0762

No drilling required, and of course no insulation either.

There are also ones which lock in place through case holes:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0776

Interesting link, never seen them before
But I am a bit worried about their adhesive nature. In the violently shaking environment of an FFB stick, I am more trustful towards the good old screw and nut type of stand-off All fittings must be rock solid and tight.

The white rubber sheet you see in my pics is actually not needed, but I placed them there to avoid wire-cuts, soldering materials, loose screws etc. go underneath the PCB by any chance, during the construction. I could have removed them after all was finished, but I didn't bother

At last i was able to shoot some photos of my pedals. I have just upgraded the braking mechanism from springs to spring-rods. It feel tight and firm now!








Slideshow here: http://w202.photobucket.com/pb...imbanos/7c06978e.pbw

All pictures here: http://s202.photobucket.com/al...dals/?albumview=grid

How did you map the two sliders to left and right throttle? I haven't seen anything in IL2 to do that. I have seen the buttons to select enginers individually, but not a way to permanently assign engines to each slider.

Thanks,

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by m_gansler:
How did you map the two sliders to left and right throttle? I haven't seen anything in IL2 to do that. I have seen the buttons to select enginers individually, but not a way to permanently assign engines to each slider.

Thanks,

Mike

Unfortunately, il2 does not model separate throttles. There is an addon program to do this but it doesn't support all throttles, read more here.

quote:

Originally posted by NuMcA_of_CS:

quote:

Originally posted by m_gansler:
How did you map the two sliders to left and right throttle? I haven't seen anything in IL2 to do that. I have seen the buttons to select enginers individually, but not a way to permanently assign engines to each slider.

Thanks,

Mike

This can be done through many different ways.

• Through Shinjiro's way
  
  
• Through a simple hack in settings.ini of your installation. You assign both axes to control "POWER", and then create a program/script that presses "select engine #1"/"select engine #2" when you move one of the throttles.
  Read more here: http://forums.ubi.com/eve/foru...651074467#3651074467
  
  
• Through GLOVEPIE. You create a script in GLOVEPIE in which you assign POWER to both axes. Whenever you move one axis, the program presses "select engine #1"/"select engine #2". You can read very detailed instructions and find working scripts here: http://forums.ubi.com/eve/foru...921049526#2921049526

This message has been edited. Last edited by: NuMcA_of_CS,

I am currently building a new console, this time named ICARUS ONE, for a member of the forum. I am using BU0836 (as soon as the site is back up) and the same arangement of plexiglass and backlight! The new version has some minor problems fixed, plus new and much brighter font!
Laser cut day yesterday:

That is a very neat job. Well done

Cool Stuff!

Hm, I got a BUO836 here, unused...

I myself have a spare one too!

THX TROTTEL!

All very cool stuff. In case anyone has not heard yet, there is planned OFFICIAL support for dual throttle control in future IL-2 add-ons:

http://www.simhq.com/_air13/air_420a.html

Aviar