hacked what i think was the same model a couple of years ago as a replacement for an earlier logitech.

the major problem is that the buttons are wired to a matrix- so unless you are planing to use only momentary switches diodes are needed- i found out the hard way
look carefully at the sub boards with buttons on and you can see tiny surface mounted diode for each button.
an example of a matrix is here
http://www.lbodnar.dsl.pipex.com/joystick/
the logitech only uses 2 rows and 6 or 8 columns iirc.

if you have unplugged the wiring from the main board (and left it attached to pots) you should be able to trace the circuit. carefully cut one pot off and solder your new pot on.plug back into board, test in windows. if all is well repeat with next three, following the wiring.

the buttons i just cut the harness as far from the board connector as possible and tested shorting them together one at a time. iirc the two rows are at one end of the connector.

sorry ain't got pics and it bit the dust a while ago- upgraded to something silly pm me if this ain't enough and i'll try to remember some more

Everything button wise will be momentary push buttons. I want to keep it simple this time!

All the info is great to know and I appreciate the help!

EDIT: I left the pots attached to the wiring and pictures will follow tonight thanks again!

I have another thread going on here: http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&...17250&page=1&fpart=2

I started the thread and its only two pages long but here is the important info and post:

LOL great to see others into this stuff. This is my first controller hack project and hopefully not my last! I did get around to taking some detailed pics of the board today though and here they are:

Everything altogether minus usb plug


Cheap Pot (4 in total but all the same)


Top of joystick (4 buttons & 8 way hat switch)


Base of stick (two buttons throttle/pitch/roll pots connect here)


Top Backside (just for kicks)


Base Backside


I need to figure out how to utilize the 8 way hat switch & 4 top buttons/trigger as 13 independent buttons (momentary push once release). Then I need to figure out what to replace the pots with plus how to wire the new ones in there place.

In all I have or would like to ed up with:

13 Buttons
4 Pots

Thats if I'm guessin right by the looks of the stick.

I think the pots will be the easiest part by the looks of things. The hardest part I think is the 8 way hat switch. The hat is physically 4 buttons but when the hat was pointed say northwest or diagonally it contacted the top/left buttons at the same time. I have'nt got a clue where to start but I have a soldering gun all the tools and I'm ready to learn! Any help on what to do, how to do it and what to get is greatly appreciated. I've seen the work you guys do and its top notch, better to learn from the pros like you!

Thanks
Chris
AKA Hitch


EDIT: I realize the stick has the potential for 15 buttons. not 13 forgot to count two of them

DOUBLE EDIT: Sokol1 from simhq and this board I think too has given me help on how to wire the HAT into 8 independent buttons. I still need to figure out how to tap the other hardwired buttons on the sticks top/base. Theres 4 buttons and a trigger up top and two more buttons at the base. The technique Sokol1 is showing me for the hat has me soldering wires to the backs of the boards behind the buttons leaving the old buttons in place.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HitchHikerHSDWG:
Just saw Sokols post on ur subject.... nice one.
Only thing u have to consider is that if u use toggles...the hatswitch function dont allow two switches to be toggled simultaniously. You need to use them in such way that you never have to use them in pairs(simultaniously) or just use momentary switches wired to the hatswitch function. the issue of leaving the original switches mounted or not.... remove them. Its easier to stick the end of a lead thrue the board and solder it on place rather than solder the leads outside the dots.

I think in my case I need to use the hat switch as 8 completely independent buttons. I would rather use momentary buttons/switches. I think I want it to work like the original joystick did, push the button=activate command. Since this is my first hack project I need to keep it simple.

I can also remove the old buttons hardwired from the board but how do I connect new ones? It looks like all the buttons are wired the same way to the boards with the exception of the HAT and trigger. The trigger is a different button altogether but I'm guessing it wires in somewhat the same way as the other hardwired buttons. Of course I dont have a clue of anything!

quote:

Originally posted by HitchHikerHSDWG:
I think in my case I need to use the hat switch as 8 completely independent buttons. I would rather use momentary buttons/switches. I think I want it to work like the original joystick did, push the button=activate command. Since this is my first hack project I need to keep it simple.

I can also remove the old buttons hardwired from the board but how do I connect new ones? It looks like all the buttons are wired the same way to the boards with the exception of the HAT and trigger. The trigger is a different button altogether but I'm guessing it wires in somewhat the same way as the other hardwired buttons. Of course I dont have a clue of anything!

Hacking is pretty simple. Just desolder the switches. You'll add some leads to move the switches to a panel... simple as that - but be sure to make notes. Otherwise you end up w lot of ??? over your head. You also got some surface mounted diodes on the back of the top plate. D1-D6. Be careful with the soldering. Dont heat things too long. electronics dont like to be overcooked, they'll brake. Careful does it.

I also read your other post in Simhq - I´m not able to log in...somebody else has claimed my username?? Well, I saw your need of advise on the switch front... toggles marked with (on)off(on) - with brackets... are momentary. They'll go back to off position as soon as you let the lever. NO - normally open is the way to go.

quote:
Originally posted by HitchHikerHSDWG:

Hacking is pretty simple. Just desolder the switches. You'll add some leads to move the switches to a panel... simple as that - but be sure to make notes. Otherwise you end up w lot of ??? over your head. You also got some surface mounted diodes on the back of the top plate. D1-D6. Be careful with the soldering. Dont heat things too long. electronics dont like to be overcooked, they'll brake. Careful does it.

This is good info posted by happytriggerfin.
Also use a soldering iron with a fine tip,for less conducting heat,when desoldering and resoldering eletronic parts. Its easy to over cook the board.

Oh I guess I should whore out my generic simpit some more!

Link to simHQ topic: http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&...5&page=1#Post2232905

Post taken from SimHQ:

Alright not the best pics the decent camera is out at our boat but I got an old (ancient) floppy disk digi camera!

Here we go simpit in current config:

From the backside


Side View


Trackir Close up


Rudder Close up


Stick Mount Close up


Headset Track clip pro (only comms through headset, all other sound 5.1)


Close up with projector on


Back up of room size (8wx10L screen on shorter wall)


Projector on opposite mounted


I'd like to build a genric simpit enclosure in the future with buttons/trim wheels/possibly guages all built in! Hope this helps!

I wish I hadn't seen these pics...now I've got some ideas for my study...

Funny everyone I talk to says "I don't have a room big enough for a projector" this is a pretty normal sized room and I can still go close to 6" bigger on the image (it goes off my screen though! In our old place I had it set up in our single wide trailers back bedroom which was only 8' deep and about 8'wide. I was able to get about the same size image in its new digs.


EDIT: In the 2nd to last pic you can see the corner edge of the bar up against the wall. Not so long ago that bar ran thru the middle of the room straight towards the back of the simpits chair and was still playable not to mention you could still navigate the room as well!

Its not how much room you have its how you use it!

quote:

Originally posted by HitchHikerHSDWG:
Funny everyone I talk to says "I don't have a room big enough for a projector" this is a pretty normal sized room and I can still go close to 6" bigger on the image (it goes off my screen though! In our old place I had it set up in our single wide trailers back bedroom which was only 8' deep and about 8'wide. I was able to get about the same size image in its new digs.


EDIT: In the 2nd to last pic you can see the corner edge of the bar up against the wall. Not so long ago that bar ran thru the middle of the room straight towards the back of the simpits chair and was still playable not to mention you could still navigate the room as well!

Its not how much room you have its how you use it!

I think the mounting for the trackir would ruin my immersion, it beeing in the screen...

Perhaps you could you could mount the trackir sensor behind you and put the trackclip backwards on the right side of your headset (facing backwards)

That way, it would be out of your face...

TrackIR is supposed to be reversible for just such occasion. Check the documentation as I'm certain I read that it can be mounted behind the user.

You would think that it gets in the way but as you can see it leaves no shadow on the screen and you really do get used to it. I thought the same thing when I first fired it up in its config. and I even thought of mounting it behind but its not that easy. Maybe I'll send a PM to Vincent from NP and ask for ideas.

The angle of the picture also makes it look much worse than it really is. It really comes up a little bit and looking around it is as easy as just tilting your head a little left or right. All in all you get used to it very quick and it really doesnt ruin immersion at all. I have thought of lowering it even more then tilting the camera up at an angle as well as tilting the TrackClip down as well to compensate but it works for me and thats all that matters.

LOL when you play on a projector the immersion level goes up so high that bar doesnt pose any threat!

like the projector setup

re pots- what you are looking for is 100k ohm LINEAR taper, ideally able to take 0.5 watt. 6mm shaft diam (large selection of knobs available for that), panel mount. one should cost $5-10. that should allow you to play around.
bought pots usually have an electrical travel of 270 deg- much more than the 60-90 deg of the ones you took out of the logitech.

as for gauges, if you've got an old pc/lcd screen this works very well
http://forums.ubi.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/49310655/m/7201027043/p/8
(post by dd)

good luck

Thanks for the words and suggestions. I was thinking about how one axis is the throttle and is designed to go from 0-100 vs. say my pots on my X-52 that have center detents. Can I get pots with center detents and one with no center detent for the throttle axis. The old throttle axis will probably turn into a prop pitch trim wheel.

I have an old LCD monitor I've been saving for the future when I build a simpit. I hope SOWBOB gives the option to use gauge data in multiplayer. I play these games online almost exclusively, so not being able to use gauges most of the time doesn't help.

What would be really cool is that the new version allows gauge data in online MP, and lets you just display the gunsight on screen less the cockpit then you could build a simpit sorta like what others build for MSFS/Project Magenta but in a combat enviroment!

Oh and as always this thread goes on at: http://www.simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&...t=all&gonew=1#UNREAD

I took a close up of one of the pots to mainly to make sense of the markings on it. Once again thanks everyone for the help.

Yep, it is adjustabled. You can mount it to either Side of you, or behind you. (TrackIR 3/4)

You then adjust it under View -> Tracking -> Settings.

Thanks Vincent I did know it was possible (already played with to use it sideways) but going about it is another question. I just have to figure out something to mount to the back of the chair and not look worse than the bar sticking up does!

I can't wait to ditch the playseat for a more customized approach. One thing I know for sure when I do build the next simpit it will have a real car seat, one thats adjustable and comfortable. The playseat is OK just not for extended flights/drives.

Thanks,
Chris

Coolio, can't wait to see the new incarnation.....

^LOL you have to wait! It has to wait until the wife and I get a house. And uh..... more cash flow! Hopefully not too much longer!

Just made this out of the internals of an x45 stick:



Just needs labels now.